Shopsmith Forums

Finally! Got the crest and spindles installed/glued and screwed so that the crest is at the same slope as the back legs and at the correct height so it mates with the proper location with no gaps - and the spindles are fully sanded and aligned. This last operation took me two days and was quite frustrating.

Tonight I'm a happy woodworker! I'll let the glue cure for a full 24 hours. Man! there was a lot of glue. Much dripping and wiping up. Undoubtedly there will be a bit of sanding to remove spots. I used titebond III for the longer open time.

Will start installing the rockers after a day of cleaning up the shop.

charlese wrote:Much dripping and wiping up. Undoubtedly there will be a bit of sanding to remove spots. I used titebond III for the longer open time.

Hey Chuck. Do you wipe up the glue? Or let it solidify some and scrape it off?

algale wrote:Looks pretty comfy!

+10

beeg wrote: Hey Chuck. Do you wipe up the glue? Or let it solidify some and scrape it off?

I use a lot of "BLUE" Rags (paper towels)

First - I'll mop up any excess glue puddles or drips with a dry rag- trying to blot toward the center of any spill. don't want to spread the spills out!!!

Second - While the glue is still wet, I'll use a damp blue rag (or two or three) to wipe up any remaining glue that I can see. I'll emphasize DAMP not wet! Don't want water from the rag to wet down a joint.

Third - The next morning I check to see if I've missed any glue globs that I missed yesterday. If it's a glob, there is usually damp glue beneath the glob surface. Here I can use a putty knife to lift and scrape away the glob.

Fourth - Now using a flashlight, search for any stains from spilled glue. Again a DAMP rag will help highlight dried glue spots because the bare wood will turn darker than the spot that has dried glue. Now sand!!! Mineral spirits will do the same thing as water, but not rise grain, if that is a problem.

Guess it's all about what works for you (the person doing the job)! Glue squeeze out/drip removal is a lot easier on a flat surface than on a sloped/rounded one

Just like the author of what you read, I'm totally against forcing glue into the surface!! However I suspect rather than forcing glue into the wood, that guy simply forgot to check for stains later with mineral spirits or water.

Did this author not find any stains after scraping? I doubt it unless he scraped with a scraper and in the process removed some wood.

P.S. I suppose, using a wet rag rather than a damp one would allow the wet glue to seep into a more porous wood.

Here's where this project is as of today. Lots more sanding, rasping, grinding yet to do.

A week ago I thought I was through shaping the arms - 0 but OH NO!!! much more to do.

The Pic shows the rocker clamped on the movable rolling lift that has come in handy many times.
I just might leave the front legs look swollen where they join the seat. Remembering the difficulty I had with that joint, hate to screw it up by taking too much. Actually, I now realize the legs should have been carved down before glueing. (do now - learn later)

I will also mention my greenhorn thoughts on grinding down the arms. They are still way too thick but frankly it is scary to grind away more. It will be done, but don't know any way to put back ground wood if too much is taken.

Chuck, this is just fantastic! Already I would take that chair in a heartbeat. Take your time and don't over-criticize; it looks great!


Chris

great job! Way beyond the "greenhorn' stage imo.

Greenhorn????

Looks pro to me! I will say it again, nicely done! Your DIL is a lucky girl! ....