Shopsmith Forums

JPG wrote:

Funbilly wrote:Are the power cords 2 prong or 3 prong originally????
Mine ha a 2 prong and thought it should have a ground....
Any input would be appreciated! Thanks

My Goldie(63) came with a 3 wire cord(and a dual voltage motor). Molded strain relief. Any replacing will require enlarging the hole(yes it still has the original but with a 230v plug).

I would replace any two wire cord with a three wire.

My SS was modified at some point to add the flat orange extension cord multi-plug (you can see in an earlier picture) which passed through the 3 inch access hole with the SS emblem on it. There is a round red wire that looks like it routes to the motor and then ties into the flat orange extension cord. I suspect the original would have been black. They are all 3 wire, now. I suspect I need to drill out the hole to enlarge for the new cable. I'll remove the motor tonight and see.

Funbilly wrote:Are the power cords 2 prong or 3 prong originally????
Mine ha a 2 prong and thought it should have a ground....
Any input would be appreciated! Thanks

My oldest Greenie is a 1955 with an A series headstock, and it came with a 3 wire power cord, grounded to the case, with the wire leads screwed to the power switch, opposed to push on terminals as they later introduced.

Everett

What is an A series headstock?

Max42 wrote:What is an A series headstock?

You can read a good bit about Shopsmith in the PDF http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 90#p185690

An A series headstock was the earliest version and were sand cast. They were thicker, and did not have the inspection / service port opening on the back side

JPG wrote a really good post on A vs B back in 2011 with photos. See http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 63#p100263

The A's were the first. the B's replaced them retaining the round toggle switch, changed the shape of the speed control mounting, reduced the number of belt cover mounting screws from 8 to 2, and added the back side access hole. The C series headstocks replaced the round toggle switch with the rectangular safety switch.

Read through the buying a used Shopsmith pdf and you will get a lot of background. Sometimes it is challenging as older machines were upgraded with newer headstock castings.

Some new headstocks were then tribute repainted to original Greenie and Goldie colors. Some older headstock were refurbished and repainted with the newer gray finish.

Exacerbating identification is the fact that some have new poly-v and quills, and some still the older gilmer drive and quills. Paint color, serial numbers on the vent plate, even the headstock casting can take you down a rabbit hole at first glance.

Knowing the lineage, and what should be there on the base machine can help you determine what upgrades have been done. Table upgrades to 510 / 520 are pretty visible. What is in the headstock takes some background, but it’s not hard to determine.

everettdavis wrote:

Max42 wrote:What is an A series headstock?

You can read a good bit about Shopsmith in the PDF http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 90#p185690

An A series headstock was the earliest version and were sand cast. They were thicker, and did not have the inspection / service port opening on the back side

JPG wrote a really good post on A vs B back in 2011 with photos. See http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 63#p100263

The A's were the first. the B's replaced them retaining the round toggle switch, changed the shape of the speed control mounting, reduced the number of belt cover mounting screws from 8 to 2, and added the back side access hole. The C series headstocks replaced the round toggle switch with the rectangular safety switch.

Read through the buying a used Shopsmith pdf and you will get a lot of background. Sometimes it is challenging as older machines were upgraded with newer headstock castings.

Some new headstocks were then tribute repainted to original Greenie and Goldie colors. Some older headstock were refurbished and repainted with the newer gray finish.

Exacerbating identification is the fact that some have new poly-v and quills, and some still the older gilmer drive and quills. Paint color, serial numbers on the vent plate, even the headstock casting can take you down a rabbit hole at first glance.

Knowing the lineage, and what should be there on the base machine can help you determine what upgrades have been done. Table upgrades to 510 / 520 are pretty visible. What is in the headstock takes some background, but it’s not hard to determine.

Thanks, Clearly I have a B Series headstock. I'll also go back and review the pdf.

Took the motor and switch out, here are some pics. Started to clean the inside. Still need to drill out the hole in the motor pan for the cable/strain relief.

Any other thoughts and observations from the pictures?

everettdavis wrote:

Max42 wrote:What is an A series headstock?

You can read a good bit about Shopsmith in the PDF http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 90#p185690

An A series headstock was the earliest version and were sand cast. They were thicker, and did not have the inspection / service port opening on the back side

JPG wrote a really good post on A vs B back in 2011 with photos. See http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 63#p100263

The A's were the first. the B's replaced them retaining the round toggle switch, changed the shape of the speed control mounting, reduced the number of belt cover mounting screws from 8 to 2, and added the back side access hole. The C series headstocks replaced the round toggle switch with the rectangular safety switch.

Read through the buying a used Shopsmith pdf and you will get a lot of background. Sometimes it is challenging as older machines were upgraded with newer headstock castings.

Some new headstocks were then tribute repainted to original Greenie and Goldie colors. Some older headstock were refurbished and repainted with the newer gray finish.

Exacerbating identification is the fact that some have new poly-v and quills, and some still the older gilmer drive and quills. Paint color, serial numbers on the vent plate, even the headstock casting can take you down a rabbit hole at first glance.

Knowing the lineage, and what should be there on the base machine can help you determine what upgrades have been done. Table upgrades to 510 / 520 are pretty visible. What is in the headstock takes some background, but it’s not hard to determine.

Mine is also a 1955 and also has no inspection hole

everettdavis wrote:

Max42 wrote:What is an A series headstock?

You can read a good bit about Shopsmith in the PDF http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 90#p185690

Thanks for this info! As I posted elsewhere, my dad recently passed his greenie on to me (didn't know they were called that, but I like it). It's in pretty good shape, he always took care of it even though he rarely used it the last 20 years.

It sat for a long time because he had no motor for it - he'd had the original motor rebuilt at one point, then dropped it onto the pavement, landing square on the end of the shaft and driving it right through, on his way from the rewind shop out to his truck. My siblings and I bought him a replacement from Shopsmith a few years later, but he still rarely used it.

Now that I have a house with a decent sized garage, he gave it to me so I'll be able to do more work around the place. Thinking some TLC is in order first - clean, lube, etc. Sounds like the doc above will be helpful!

Getting ready to start putting this back together since everything has been removed and cleaned.

I have a question about the spring in the photo. Should the longer end just lay in the slot or should it have a bend that like the opposite side that fits into a hole in the slot? Hope that makes sense.

One other question is whether to wax any other rotating parts other than the quill or just leave them clean. I know the sheave shafts get oil.

thanks

Yes the straight end of the spring 'just lays there'.

I like to wax the bearing outer race(I think that will make later removal easier). Time will tell if that is folly!

Any thing that will rust is a candidate for waxing.