Shopsmith Forums

algale wrote:

reible wrote:Would this be the sort of bevel she is looking for?

ScreenHunter_93 Feb. 10 22.38.jpg

The plywood edge would need to get covered anyway and the bevel if it looks like this needs to be made in real stock and not plywood.

Ed

Hi Ed,

That's almost it but she want no step to the bevel and probably sharper. She is aware of the ply issue. Seems not to be bothered by it, though I am. Clearly the easiest and best looking way to do this is to add a beveled face frame after the build is done.

But only if all of the details for a face frame are contemplated BEFORE the build. A face frame added as an after thought my not allow for drawers.

Just for a little fun.
Ed

algale wrote:So here is my wife's sketch. Not shown is the inward bevel on the edges of the carcass.

image.jpeg

In light of the stated requirements I think both you and your wife need to rethink this project.
It seems to be a solid wood design instead of a ply wood project.

If you do decide it must be ply then you must consider veneer.

In either case I would make a strong case for buying a guided saw system.

OH NO

I went with a 55" TV rather then the 65"........... see revision below.
Ed

reible wrote:OH NO

I went with a 55" TV rather then the 65"........... see revision below.

ScreenHunter_95 Feb. 11 09.34.jpg

Ed

Ed, that is really nice of you to draw this up for me in perspective. I wish I knew how to do it!

masonsailor2 wrote:The best way to get a perfect edge for that kind of cut is a skil saw believe it or not. Get a new finish cut blade for your skil saw and then make a cut off shoe. It will only take a few minutes to make and the cut will be perfect. I use a piece of 1/4 ply for the base and 1/2" for the guide. But you can pretty much use anything. Since the shoe will have a nice clean edge it's easy to put it right on the line, clamp it and cut it off.
Paul

Would you please explain what a "cut off shoe" is. Post a pic? I've not heard that term before and I'm trying to improve my woodworking knowledge - white I'm still able. Thanks!

I will be home tonight so I can post a picture of it. There are other possibilities. If you have a big enough router you can also use a 45 degree chamfer bit and a guide which will work fine for plywood. The cut off shoe will give you nice crisp edges that will mate nicely though.
Paul.

I have been contemplating a similar need, yet I want to do a hidden television behind a mirror displayed over the mantle that is a mirror when it's off, and a television when it's on.

My thoughts were to remote the console with in wall wiring as the mantle is over the fireplace.

You can see what it looks like at http://www.hiddentelevision.com/ where they sell turn-key solutions for those that need that service.

There is a DIY planning process documented at http://www.hiddentelevision.com/instructions.htm

As woodworkers, we can make the frame moldings from scratch, and frame it. The larger cost is the mirror itself, and many glass shops can acquire material, but the material has to be really specific grade to make it work well.

There are many companies doing this sort of thing, perhaps even some of you.

Love to know if anyone in the forums have tackled this sort of project.

It is on my to do someday list...

Everett

This mirror tv reminds me of this project that I looked at a while back and bookmarked for what ever reason.

https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/magic-mirror/

Ed

At eight feet long that is going to be very difficult to manouver down halls/through doorways etc.
It might be better to make it in three parts: the two end cabinets and the open bridge in the center, and then assemble them in place.
That would also solve your problem with cutting the mitres on the ends of really long boards.