Shopsmith Forums

JPG wrote:

retiredsoldier919 wrote:

JPG wrote:Although it is rarely the start capacitor, it is often the start switch.

That would be my next step.

The switch tested good following Jacob's Youtube video.

Not having that video, I am curious how that is done.

I would not trust any resistance measurement made external to the motor.

P.S. You have a local motor shop with 'SS experience'?

The gentleman on the phone claimed to have worked on SS motors before.
I figure he should at least be able to properly diagnose the motor and provide advice on how to proceed. Repair or replace?

After looking at the switch diagram located here allinonewood.com/svcadv/replacingthemarkvswitch.pdf
I believe the switch may be wired wrong. Any thoughts?
My switch is properly installed with the on position on top.

Wiring is normal(correct). Later(?) machines only switched the black/blue wires.

Not seeing a problem. You have the white wire from the cord going to the white wire from the motor through the switch and the black wire from the cord going to the blue wire of the motor through the switch. You have a green wire attached to ground from the cord.

If you have an ohm meter you can take the wires off and test that you have zero ohms between where the white/white wires are when the switch in on. Same thing with the blue/black terminals. If either of them are open it will not start at all. Since it will attempt to start then fails there must be some conductivity. That is baring any internal shorts.

Ed

retiredsoldier919 wrote:After looking at the switch diagram located here allinonewood.com/svcadv/replacingthemarkvswitch.pdf
I believe the switch may be wired wrong. Any thoughts?

20160425_230216-600x800.jpg

My switch is properly installed with the on position on top.

Thanks for prompt replies.

BTW The START switch is internal to the motor. Your pix(and I assume the video) shows the external power switch. The video did nothing re the START switch.

If you are reluctant to dig into the motor, the motor shop is your next step.

JPG wrote:BTW The START switch is internal to the motor. Your pix(and I assume the video) shows the external power switch. The video did nothing re the START switch.

If you are reluctant to dig into the motor, the motor shop is your next step.

Sorry for not being more clear. The video is the one that Jacob Anderson shows how to test the external switch. Simply checking for proper functionality in both positions. Mine tested fine. I did attempt to open the end cap of the motor, but it didn't come off easily, so I stopped before I made it worse. I'll likely take it to a local electric motor shop.

You can help the motor shop by removing the floating sheave/spring etc. Not for the faint hearted!

JPG wrote:You can help the motor shop by removing the floating sheave/spring etc. Not for the faint hearted!

So you don't recommend leaving it on, so they can test it under a load?
Or should they be able to determine that without applying a physical load?

retiredsoldier919 wrote:

JPG wrote:You can help the motor shop by removing the floating sheave/spring etc. Not for the faint hearted!

So you don't recommend leaving it on, so they can test it under a load?
Or should they be able to determine that without applying a physical load?

It will be in their way when they go to disassemble it to get inside. If they truly have experience with SS motors, it will be a minimal inconvenience to them. However if not, . . .

Back up. Let's keep this simple. Take it in as is. Let them struggle with the extra parts.

I think you will quickly find out if 'ss motor experience' is indeed a fact.