Shopsmith Forums

projectdiy wrote:

wa2crk wrote:Is the retaining ring in place at the rear of the 6205 bearing? Just a thought.
Bill V

No it appears to be gone. I did find those in the motor pan but they appeared to be crushed.
Is there supposed to be a "cup" for the button bearing to ride in??

The control sheave hub has a shallow bore that the bearing sets into. The very end of the hub is then staked slightly so as to retain the bearing. The initial pix appears to show that end of the hub is broken.

There is no retaining ring on the control sheave.

The ? regarding the retaining ring is relative to the drive sleeve which appears to be positioned towards the rear too far. That is a secondary issue that we can address after the control sheave etc. is nailed down.

FWIW should be a retaining ring at both ends of the drive sleeve.

Also the rings are not obvious.

Some pix of what you found would be helpful. You may have found the remains of the control sheave bearing down there.
If the retainer is missing from the left end of the drive sleeve it would account for the drive sleeve moving out of the headstock.
As for the control sheave; the bearing is staked into the sheave. The outer race may still be there. There is a guy who posts occasionally on E-Bay that replaces the small bearing and the loop but don't know what he charges.
As JPG said, the rings are NOT obvious. The outer one has to be removed to change the bearings or the poly V belt but the inner one does not have to be removed. It is a real b---h to get it back in.
Bill V

wa2crk wrote: . . . It is a real b---h to get it back in.
Bill V

Works better from the 'inside'.

Max file size is 2MB

Thanks for that info.!!

I noticed in Nick Engler's Sawdust Sessions that he often shut down his machine without moving speed control at all.
I was trying to reconcile this with the accepted procedures.

projectdiy wrote:I noticed in Nick Engler's Sawdust Sessions that he often shut down his machine without moving speed control at all.
I was trying to reconcile this with the accepted procedures.

I think he is working on one thing, and not changing SPTs. Some one posted here they had the speed controller above the BS setting for an other operation, then put on the BS, and did not realize it was way over the BS speed and spun off the tires!!!

projectdiy wrote:I noticed in Nick Engler's Sawdust Sessions that he often shut down his machine without moving speed control at all.
I was trying to reconcile this with the accepted procedures.

The turn it down to slow mantra is a carry over from the 50's when 3/4hp motor and overloaded 15A fused circuits were the norm.

It is still a good idea today when 'done for the day'.

Today we typically have 20A circuit breaker protected circuits. They have heavier wire(back in the 50's with even older homes what was there was a crap shoot).

With a starved voltage condition(like the 50's) the start time was greatly extended which is hard on the motor.

Today one can tell if start up time is excessive. Usually it is not.

So listen and the motor will tell you if what you are doing is 'cool'.

projectdiy wrote:I noticed in Nick Engler's Sawdust Sessions that he often shut down his machine without moving speed control at all.
I was trying to reconcile this with the accepted procedures.

Accepted procedures are only what SS says. Not necessarily needed.

There is no reason to turn the SS to slow when you turn it off. The only difference is that the start up current lasts a little longer than when at the slow speed. The startup current is the same. The time is longer. If set to a higher speed the motor takes longer to spin up so the load current lasts for a longer time. If you use a 15 A circuit or a compromised 20 A circuit you may have problems. If you have a fully serviceable 20A circuit with #12 wire there should be no problem. My opinion is that the reason SS says that turn the machine to slow when turning off is so you don't start the machine on a higher speed than a connected SPT should be run at.

My shorty sanding station is always set at disk sanding speed and turned on and off all the time with no problems.

There is another thread here where someone was cutting internal scroll saw cuts. He had the SS mounted scroll saw. He had dozens of internal cuts. Every time he made a cut and had to stop the machine to thread the blade in another internal hole he turned the SS to slow and then had to crank it up again. Totally unnecessary. What a pain and totally unnecessary.