Shopsmith Forums

ERLover wrote:Similar to this?
http://www.rockler.com/rockler-router-t ... -joint-jig
I am not a dado guy, when I need dado work I use my router table and some times in conjunction with the table saw regular blade. I just never got into dado blades, there fine tuning for width. I am just more comfortable on the router table with the correct bit.

If it works fine. Lots of these inexpensive jigs only give you certain sizes. The more expensive ones give you much more control with what you might want to do. To each his own.

I'm going to steal your contrasting laminated top idea someday. It really does dress up and visually balance the entire box.

Can't wait to see it with the finish on.

I've not used the I box on a router table but there are instuctions for doing so.

"This is the most advanced box joint jig ever produced! Works at both table saws and router tables, features micro-adjustable joint tightness, and allows pin widths from 1/8" - 3/4". Fast setup for basic joints, plus advanced capability for unique decorative joints, too. Hand screw clamp not included. Available for either 3/4" x 3/8" or Shopsmith-sized miter slots. Made in USA."

Of couse you have to have the right router table for the jig you have etc etc.

Ed

jsburger

John your post and your excellent work generated my interest again!. I purchased a Mark V mainly to get a bunch of stuff that I wanted and sold the Mark V for a good profit and ended up with a bunch of good stuff!!. One of the items was a Incra-I-Box jig in the box. Problem was and still is the miter bar didn't fit a Shopsmith. Also I have two dado sets, a Freud and a Craftsman neither being for a good clean box joint. I really don't want to buy a box joint set but thought what the heck make it work with what I have. I will probably spring for a Freud box joint set or maybe a Forrest if I get more interested.

Don G

Don, Incra will sell the Shopsmith miter bar separately. Go to incremental tools.com. I can vouch for the Freud box joint blades. They are great. First time I used the I had installed them backwards! You could smell the burnt wood! No damage... Just my ego!

dgreen810 wrote:jsburger

John your post and your excellent work generated my interest again!. I purchased a Mark V mainly to get a bunch of stuff that I wanted and sold the Mark V for a good profit and ended up with a bunch of good stuff!!. One of the items was a Incra-I-Box jig in the box. Problem was and still is the miter bar didn't fit a Shopsmith. Also I have two dado sets, a Freud and a Craftsman neither being for a good clean box joint. I really don't want to buy a box joint set but thought what the heck make it work with what I have. I will probably spring for a Freud box joint set or maybe a Forrest if I get more interested.

Don G

Don, I am glad I piqued your interest. As Chris has said, Incra will sell you a miter bar for the I Box to fit the Shopsmith.

Ya I know. I talked to a young man at Incra and he told me If would ship him this one I have, he would send me a SS one for free. I just didn't want to wait on the going and coming. I am going to mail it tomorrow. Besides, you guys probably have figured out by now, I really like to make things if nothing else to satisfy my own ego that I knew I could do that!!

I thought about making the miter bar from my Incra v-120 do, and it will work, but just didn't want to drill all those holes in it. Had to mill the cold roll bar to the correct width for SS and use a piece of 1/16" Lexan for a spacer to get the correct height. I cut some Walnut and Pecan to 1/2"+ and
ran it through the planer to 1/2". Will play around a little and see what happens.

Don G

I understand wanting to do it yourself. Sometimes it pays off, sometimes not. I ran some HDPE (i think that's right) through my Jet drum sander to bring a miter bar to the correct dimensions. Worked really well. Only problem is it fused to the sanding drum so that now anytime I run something through the drum sander, it leaves a grove in the piece. I have a new roll of paper to put on, but that is going to be a premature PITA!

jsburger

John, if you don't mind, will you post what RPM are you turning your Forrest box joint blades? I assume you are using your Power Pro so if you can relate the RPM of the PP to a Mark V speed dial. I have never quite understood why the speed dial on a Mark V has a setting for "Magna Dado" which is considerable slower than the "Saw" setting which contributes to unwanted tear-out. Even when using a good solid backer. I am using a Freud "Super Dado"stack set two blade configuration for 1/4" dadoes and experience minor tear-out and think the "Saw" setting would help the situation but am a little leery unless someone can explain why not??

I haven't been able to find the max RPM for the Freud "Super Dado" set I have but think they can be turned to 7000 RPM safely as well but don't know for sure???



PS: I ordered a Freud 8"Box set that should help since Freud says they can be turned to 7000 RPM.

Don G

The Power Pro recommends 3600 RPM for a 6 inch stacked dado set in hard and softwoods.

Mike