Main table flatness

[Ed in Tampa]

The dollar bill trick (or twenty dollar bill trick) helps prevent the table from binding as it is tilted by increasing the gap between the trunnions and the tie bar castings.

I do not understood why you (Ed in Tampa) say that the dollar bill trick improves (or lessens) your table warpage. In theory, the dollar bill trick should increase the amount of table distortion when the lock is applied as compared to not using the dollar bill trick. That is because when the tilt lock is applied, the trunnions are squeezed against the tie bar. By using the dollar bill trick and increasing the gap between the trunnions and the tie bar, the trunnions need to be squeezed further toward the tie bars to apply the same locking force, I illustrated that point in this picture (ignore the second text box).



The very real possibility of table flex was confirmed by one of our forum's resident engineers, in this post, http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 45#p178945, where he said "If the trunnion-to-table-bar gap is too large, then tightening the lock would surely flex the table..."

I think in my case the clearance was too great as explained in the last paragraph above.
In any case my table warpage improved when I did as Nick detailed, but not even close to what I would like. However after more than a few years of usage I can say to the best of my knowledge the warped table did not effect any project in which I used the SS.

[dusty]

I have been through this discussion many times. I have done research (if you would call it that). I have torn down and rebuilt the table system. I have aligned and realigned, adjusted and readjusted and still I can not determine how the table would get twisted enough to create a noticeable difference in table flatness by simply doing a proper setup.

A few observations made during these "experiments":

[dusty]

By the way the procedure in the link above given by Nick fixed a huge flatness problem on my main table. I'm still not happy with the table flatness but that is life.

The procedure that Nick outlines to align the the table is the best I have found. I have tried nearly every procedure given on this forum with the exception of Reible's latest and none work as well as Nick's which is the one specified in the Shopsmith manual. Perhaps the manufacture knows about the machine they build.

Are you referring to the procedure of taking the table to a machine shop to have it reground flat? If I understand correctly, Nick says nothing can be done for the flatness other than that. Shimming won't work. Maybe I missed it.

Some money pics....right-front to left-rear seems to be the worst but both off.

I'm sorry if you are checking the table with the tilt lock loose then the table is warped. However the warp was a lot less when I loosened the tilt lock. I then used the dollar bill and my table looked a lot better not perfect but better.

I would love to see the dimensions you would get if you locked your table tilt and then removed the table to make the indicated dimensions.

I would expect both diagonals (only one shown here) to be the same. I would also expect the trunion separation dimensions to all be identical. These are not specification numbers but a properly aligned machine would have numbers that closely resemble these.

[Skizzity]

I got my straight edge today. My feeler gauges won't be here 'til Monday though. So I had to use my dado shims again. This is what I saw.

[dusty]

That doesn't look so good. Is the other diagonal as bad?

[Skizzity]

That doesn't look so good. Is the other diagonal as bad?

Is there a third diagonal I don't know about?

[dusty]

That doesn't look so good. Is the other diagonal as bad?

Is there a third diagonal I don't know about?

No! I thought both were right front to left rear. Sorry.

[Skizzity]

I still need to measure my table with my new gauges.

I just got my replacement main table and assemblies. Shipping document said "Table is flat within manufacturing specifications." I looked at the table and it is all marked with tape of ".010" or "less than .010" except the left front corner which says "<.015", "<.015 - .010". I need to pull my gauges out for my old table now.

The thing that really peeved me off though was that the tubes are for the non-dual tilt table. Only racks on one side unlike my original table tubes that has racks on both sides. Now another call because in the original phone call they were replacing everything and wanted the original stuff returned.

[jsburger]

I still need to measure my table with my new gauges.

I just got my replacement main table and assemblies. Shipping document said "Table is flat within manufacturing specifications." I looked at the table and it is all marked with tape of ".010" or "less than .010" except the left front corner which says "<.015", "<.015 - .010". I need to pull my gauges out for my old table now.

The thing that really peeved me off though was that the tubes are for the non-dual tilt table. Only racks on one side unlike my original table tubes that has racks on both sides. Now another call because in the original phone call they were replacing everything and wanted the original stuff returned.

Did you tell them when you called that you had the double tilt upgrade?

[Skizzity]

No because I told them I have a Mark 7. She even pulled up the order of the Mark 7.