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Also to Red and John, here is the "recreation" of the wiring from the motor to switch to outlet. The first pic just shows where the line cord goes into the motor and then one wire is connected to one wire nut and the other wire to the other nut. I cut the line cord off at the strain relief so that's the reason for the pic again. Now, the cord that is coming "through" the motor is the one mentioned above, that then connects to one side of the switch. Then you can see the other half that has the plug on it connected to the other side. Hope this helps? If more info needed let me know.

Tylerh wrote:Here are some pics of the bearing that has the extra width measurement. Figured I would post them just so there was a good example on here.

Looks like the pictures of the Fafnir bearings on the link you posted (sans dimensions).

Not sure why JPG says "Typically' the inner race has a slightly smaller 'width' than the outer race." Width in quotes? In a light duty motor that might be a bit unusual but some engineer at the time decided it was required.

James...

Re the switch wiring - Atypical, yes, weird, no.

The switch is both a switch and a pilot light.

So both a 'hot' and a neutral need be connected from the linecord.

And both a neutral and a switched hot need to connect to the motor.

Tylerh wrote:Also to Red and John, here is the "recreation" of the wiring from the motor to switch to outlet. The first pic just shows where the line cord goes into the motor and then one wire is connected to one wire nut and the other wire to the other nut. I cut the line cord off at the strain relief so that's the reason for the pic again. Now, the cord that is coming "through" the motor is the one mentioned above, that then connects to one side of the switch. Then you can see the other half that has the plug on it connected to the other side. Hope this helps? If more info needed let me know.

Well that looks normal to me. Not normal for a 10 ER but normal wiring as near as I can see.

There are two things here. A switch and an outlet. The switch turns the power on and off to the 10ER. That is why the power cord goes through the switch to the motor. The outlet is separate and there are two ways to wire it. Regardless the outlet is wired in parallel to the switch. If you wire it on the input side of the switch (plug side) it will always be on. If you wire it on the output side it will be on or off depending on the position of the switch.

There is a connection from the switch terminals to the outlet terminals. Depending on which side of the switch the wiring is on will tell you how the outlet works.

So now my question is how would I go about rewiring from the motor to the switch? I obviously need a new line cord, either a 14 or 12 gauge extension cord with the female plug snipped off right? Then although if read alot about the wiring from different posts, it would be nice to have it here so I could find it easier.

P.S. jsburger, sorry if I got your name wrong! I saw John in your "signature" so figured that was your name.

Tylerh wrote:So now my question is how would I go about rewiring from the motor to the switch? I obviously need a new line cord, either a 14 or 12 gauge extension cord with the female plug snipped off right? Then although if read alot about the wiring from different posts, it would be nice to have it here so I could find it easier.

P.S. jsburger, sorry if I got your name wrong! I saw John in your "signature" so figured that was your name.

14 gauge would be fine, that motor only pulls about 7amps if I remember right. I cant see mine at the moment. I use a 15ft cord, you could even go to 25ft if you wanted.

Tylerh wrote:So now my question is how would I go about rewiring from the motor to the switch? I obviously need a new line cord, either a 14 or 12 gauge extension cord with the female plug snipped off right? Then although if read alot about the wiring from different posts, it would be nice to have it here so I could find it easier.

P.S. jsburger, sorry if I got your name wrong! I saw John in your "signature" so figured that was your name.

Buy a standard toggle switch rated for the motor horse power you have. I assume 1/2 HP. It should be a Double Pole Single Throw switch (DPST). It will mount in the hole below your missing ID plate. Buy some 14 or 12 gauge two wire cord with a ground. I prefer 12 gauge but 14 gauge is fine for the 10ER. Just connect the plug side of the wires to the switch and connect the other side of the switch to the motor. Connect the ground wire from the plug side to the SS frame. I do mine to the motor mount since it is close. The ground wire from the motor side of the switch to the motor does not have to be connected.

I am not sure where you got my name wrong but it is indeed John.

Sounds easy enough. So when I snip the female end off I'll snip some wire with it and use that to run from the switch to the motor. Then I'll just run the plug side through the hole in the motor frame and up to the switch?
John, in your post about the bearing, at the end you put "James... " That's what made me think I was wrong!

'John' was addressing me(James aka JPG aka Red).

Ohhh thanks clearing that up um.. RedJamesJPG? I'll just stick to JPG