Shopsmith Forums

JPG wrote:

dusty wrote:

JPG wrote:One thing you need to think about is providing a strain relief(method to secure the internal end of the cord).

You will need to improvise. A simple cable clamp and screw(need to drill a hole?)will be better than the switch termination proving that strain relief.

Or he could go to ACE Hardware and get the real thing.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Heco+St ... f&tbm=shop

Sure!

Now where on the cast iron headstock do you suggest boring the hole to mount any of them(keep in mind the thickness of the cast iron)?

You beat me to it. I was composing my other post.

When I rewired mine I used the unused part of the slots on the end of the motor mounting plate to route the power cords, (motor to switch and switch to outlet). A zip tie on the "to plug" end provides strain relief. I used a 15', 12ga. extension cord for mine, Lee Valley has a "special buy" on them at that time, so I got it at a good price.

The whole bottom of the headstock casting on at 10ER is open, so no need to drill any holes. and a close up. In retrospect, if I was doing it again I would run the cord from the wall to a box with four outlets mounted at the back of the bench, and then just a short cord with a plug to switch.
The extra outlets would be handy to plug in lights, or small tools like a random orbit sander.

I like the zip tie approach.

As for 'grounding' two things need to be grounded - motor shell and headstock(the switch mounts there).

Both need to be connected using external tooth lock washers to ensure penetrating paint and or rust.(both best removed first)

Any externally accessible screw on the motor will do as long as it is 'connected' to the motor frame.

Finally the ground wire needs to be the 'longest' so if the strain relief fails, the ground wire will be the last to be pulled loose.

FWIW, a plastic body on the switch will negate the need to ground the headstock, but loose wires could still be a hazard if not grounded.


Lotta talk about preventing rainy day possibilities, but that is what safety procedures are all about!

JPG wrote:I like the zip tie approach.

As for 'grounding' two things need to be grounded - motor shell and headstock(the switch mounts there).

Both need to be connected using external tooth lock washers to ensure penetrating paint and or rust.(both best removed first)

Any externally accessible screw on the motor will do as long as it is 'connected' to the motor frame.

Finally the ground wire needs to be the 'longest' so if the strain relief fails, the ground wire will be the last to be pulled loose.

FWIW, a plastic body on the switch will negate the need to ground the headstock, but loose wires could still be a hazard if not grounded.


Lotta talk about preventing rainy day possibilities, but that is what safety procedures are all about!

Well, since the machine is ALL metal if you ground it any where everything is grounded including the head stock. That is what I said in my previous post.

Oh, what external motor screw is not connected to the motor frame? Again

jsburger wrote:

JPG wrote:

dusty wrote:

Or he could go to ACE Hardware and get the real thing.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Heco+St ... f&tbm=shop

Sure!

Now where on the cast iron headstock do you suggest boring the hole to mount any of them(keep in mind the thickness of the cast iron)?

You beat me to it. I was composing my other post.

You guys make a pair. But I suggest that you not disregard Heyco as a possibility unless you have already "made of your minds - your way or no way".

http://www.heyco.com/Hole_Plugs/

Heyco has a pretty good product line.

dusty wrote:

jsburger wrote:

JPG wrote:

Sure!

Now where on the cast iron headstock do you suggest boring the hole to mount any of them(keep in mind the thickness of the cast iron)?

You beat me to it. I was composing my other post.

You guys make a pair. But I suggest that you not disregard Heyco as a possibility unless you have already "made of your minds - your way or no way".

http://www.heyco.com/Hole_Plugs/

Heyco has a pretty good product line.

This has nothing to do with the Heyco line. They are absolutely perfect in the proper application.

What JPG and I are saying is that they are not appropriate for the 10ER. If you think they are then tell us how you would mount one of them on a 10ER. Please show me a better way on a 10ER than the zip ties. I have never "made up my mind" as far as a solution to any problem. Everything is always in play. I do what I do until a better solution comes along.

jsburger wrote:
What JPG and I are saying is that they are not appropriate for the 10ER. If you think they are then tell us how you would mount one of them on a 10ER. Please show me a better way on a 10ER than the zip ties. I have never "made up my mind" as far as a solution to any problem. Everything is always in play. I do what I do until a better solution comes along.

AMEN

Yes 'we' are a pair!

A pair of logical, open minded thinkers.

As for 'better solutions' we need to be convinced with rational thinking.


Now about it all being conductive metal.

There are joints/surfaces between the adjoining parts. Normally conduction is possible across them, but that is not 'guaranteed'. Hence grounding different parts is prudent.

JPG wrote:

jsburger wrote:
What JPG and I are saying is that they are not appropriate for the 10ER. If you think they are then tell us how you would mount one of them on a 10ER. Please show me a better way on a 10ER than the zip ties. I have never "made up my mind" as far as a solution to any problem. Everything is always in play. I do what I do until a better solution comes along.

AMEN

Yes 'we' are a pair!

A pair of logical, open minded thinkers.

As for 'better solutions' we need to be convinced with rational thinking.


Now about it all being conductive metal.

There are joints/surfaces between the adjoining parts. Normally conduction is possible across them, but that is not 'guaranteed'. Hence grounding different parts is prudent.

Grounding? Prudent but probably not really necessary in the HOME environment.

JPG wrote:

jsburger wrote:
What JPG and I are saying is that they are not appropriate for the 10ER. If you think they are then tell us how you would mount one of them on a 10ER. Please show me a better way on a 10ER than the zip ties. I have never "made up my mind" as far as a solution to any problem. Everything is always in play. I do what I do until a better solution comes along.

AMEN

Yes 'we' are a pair!

A pair of logical, open minded thinkers.

As for 'better solutions' we need to be convinced with rational thinking.


Now about it all being conductive metal.

There are joints/surfaces between the adjoining parts. Normally conduction is possible across them, but that is not 'guaranteed'. Hence grounding different parts is prudent.

To add "official" wisdom to that advice (and also glaze most eyeballs ), at work I design equipment that must comply with NFPA 79, "Electrical Standard for Industrial Machinery". The editions of that standard published in 2008 and prior explicitly allowed "protective earth" chassis grounding to rely on conduction across metallic rotary bearings and sliding ways, as long as the latter were not subjected to pressurized lubrication. The current standard no longer permits this, unless the joint is specifically designed for the purpose. I believe the change was made in order to harmonize with the nearly identical IEC standard 60204-1.

As a practical matter, I must agree with JSB that a single chassis ground on a 10ER operating on 110V is not a significant hazard. But now that you pointed it out, I'll probably ground mine to the latest standard when I rebuild it.

jsburger wrote: . . .
Grounding? Prudent but probably not really necessary in the HOME environment.

Oh I think HOME is where it is needed more. Especially with 'vintage' stuff.

As for the 10E/R probably grounding the motor is adequate(though not 'fail safe').

Keep in mind it was not likely grounded when built.(no three wire cords shown in the installation 'TO').