Shopsmith Forums

carpfisher wrote:I assume by tension pin you mean a roll Pin? I don't see it or where it could be.

They do not make 'roll pins' any more, they make tension pins(yes there is a big difference).

Look on the headstock side, not the spt mount side.

It is in a hole.

Excuse the pile of stuff but this is the only image I could find in my file that shows what you seek.
Be careful when attempting to drive the pin out. You don't want to mushroom the end of the pin. The pin will push straight through so you don't have to worry about which end you are driving. It may be necessary to rotate the pivot pin (not the retaining pin) to get the retaining pin properly aligned with the hole.

You need a pin pun to do this with minimal risk. Trying to drive the retaining pin out with a nail or the like is begging for more headache.

Also, the pivot pin is not going to just freely slide out of the base arm assembly. I have to drive the one you see in this picture with a piece of wooded dowel and a hefty mallet.

Update:
I have had to resort to the aforementioned Gorilla tactics as shown below(pic 1). One side is loose, other is not. I applied pressure with the Jack, Heat, whacked it with the rubber hammer some more. Also applied lifting pressure on the offending collar with a pry bar. No joy.
It has been sitting for over 24 hours under pressure with no improvement.
I have not tried to push the Tension Pin(pic #2) thru because i see anyplace for it to "go", or drop out (pic 3). I looked at the MK V schematic and it doesn't even show the roll pin.

Believe me, if you punch the pin clear through the hinge pin, the pin will drop out. The only way that it would not is if the casting is full of crud to prevent it from moving. Gravity works.

Take a real good look at the pin (that you are attempting to remove) and then roll the hinge pin 180° so that you can inspect the other end. What is see in picture #2 is not quite what I expected. That pin looks to be a bit mushroomed.

There was a rule on the battle field requiring that the leader always have an alternate plan of attack. Yoy might want to remove the casting from the Way and Bench Tubes.

I don't know what to call this part, but on the newer ones it is held by spring clips or E-clips on the ends. Very easy to disengage. The casting in this photo is an extra. If you end up busting yours, send me a note. I have almost thrown this away several times as I always seem to trip on it!

Rest assured, it IS there.
Thanks ED.

Pix 1 appears to have the jack handle side 'loose'(higher than
If so pressure needs to be to the stuck side only. Furher 'jacking' as set up will cause it to become more cocked and bind more.

I think wedging between the collar and the base is appropriate. Start with wedge on the 'outside'(away from the 'loose' post).

This might sound like another gorilla tactic but have you tried tapping it down just to loosen it?

When you are applying pressure with the jack are you sure you are not pushing it up on a angle and binding it worse?

I notice you are adding heat to the area of the tubing , this can cause the tubing to swell and not the hole , try wrapping a cold wet rag around the tube and just heating the mount around the tubes?


Just my 2cnts

Hobbyman2

Force from the bottom side. Probably impact force on the end of the stuck tube.

I would have torn the machine down so as to be able to do that without all this fuss and heat. I do understand that not everyone enjoys a good tear down and rebuild like I do.

I agree Dusty on all accounts.

I think we should be dealing with two parts.

All that other stuff is in the way, and subject to unintentional damage.