Shopsmith Forums

using a sharp knife blade,,,, and you square ,or even 2 different squares , score a line as close to the cut as possible and see if the cut is straight ?

If not it could be drift when you are feeding the stock through the blade.


To me the cut looks high in the center.

I usually use a miter saw to make cuts on stock that size and then true them up on the SS sanding disc , , I went through too many advill doing it the other way.

Hobbyman2 wrote:I cant tell for sure,,,,, the picture looks like the cut starts out {{{{{ends up, depending on the direction you are feeding the stock,,,}} it's pretty straight for a little bit ?

Do you use the hold down on the miter gage ,I wouldn't think the table would move using the miter gage ?

.008 is like 8 100ths of 1 1000th

OMG!

.008 IS 8 100ths of 0.1!

.008 not much is it .

Most milling we did was +- .05

Hobbyman2 wrote:.008 not much is it .

Especially if is was actually 8 100ths of 1 1000th which is 0.00008.

You da man!!

Maybe, but this ain't helping him gain perfection.

+1

Dansmith wrote:Thanks Paul and Hobbyman2. I will keep trying, and I also suspect it is "creep" caused by my technique. I will not give up. I am intent on making the "perfect" cross-cut.

It is good that you are not going to quit trying but you do not need feeler gauges to check wood working.

Setup your machines using normal techniques and whatever pass fail criteria you want (I use .005") and go make saw dust.

Keep in mind that you can be no more accurate than your tools. How square (and how repeatable) is your combination square?

Reible posted a picture (this thread) showing a light reveal between the work piece and the square. Use this between to quick check your cross cuts and you will be building some fine pieces. Especially if you get to the point of "No light". This is going to be somewhere between 1/64" (.015625" ) and 1/128" (.0078125").