Miter set screw stuck
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You can grind down the 5/32 allen wrench to where the rounded part is gone.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
Removed the Tapered Screw by:
Soaking the Screw, using a new Allen wrench, a #4 extractor, and attempts to drill the tapered screw did not work.
In desparation, I found a large punch that would fit under the miter guage handle, set against the miter bar, oiled the miter slot, and started driving. The bar started moving, but the bar rose out of the miter track before the T-slot washer had cleared the table. Caution: too much and the bar will mushroom and the holes for the screws that hold handle on the bar will be deformed. There was enough room to get the T-slot washer to clear the rear rail assemebly and the miter guage was free of the table.
The tapers screw would not turn out even if it was not under compression of the miter slot, I tried spreading the slot with large screw drivers. I was able to back out the screw a turn or so but not enough to get it out of the bar. The allen wrench continued to rotate in the socket. I noticed that the tapered screw was split and the screw drivers had widened the slot so that the smallest piece of the broken tapered screw fell out. The remaining two pieces were removed by exploiting the extra space provided by the screw drivers wedged into the slot. The method was to worry the remaining pieces until they elected to drop out.
[ATTACH]10604[/ATTACH]
Question is when did the tapered screw split? It must have been intact when it was removed for the wax and the graphite treatments. It may have broken when the extractor was applied. The cracked tapered screw may have allowed the allen wrench to slip or made it difficult to tighten.
Anyway. Its out and waiting for parts, damage check, and repair. It would have been a work stopper for someone with a lone ShopSmith.
In desparation, I found a large punch that would fit under the miter guage handle, set against the miter bar, oiled the miter slot, and started driving. The bar started moving, but the bar rose out of the miter track before the T-slot washer had cleared the table. Caution: too much and the bar will mushroom and the holes for the screws that hold handle on the bar will be deformed. There was enough room to get the T-slot washer to clear the rear rail assemebly and the miter guage was free of the table.
The tapers screw would not turn out even if it was not under compression of the miter slot, I tried spreading the slot with large screw drivers. I was able to back out the screw a turn or so but not enough to get it out of the bar. The allen wrench continued to rotate in the socket. I noticed that the tapered screw was split and the screw drivers had widened the slot so that the smallest piece of the broken tapered screw fell out. The remaining two pieces were removed by exploiting the extra space provided by the screw drivers wedged into the slot. The method was to worry the remaining pieces until they elected to drop out.
[ATTACH]10604[/ATTACH]
Question is when did the tapered screw split? It must have been intact when it was removed for the wax and the graphite treatments. It may have broken when the extractor was applied. The cracked tapered screw may have allowed the allen wrench to slip or made it difficult to tighten.
Anyway. Its out and waiting for parts, damage check, and repair. It would have been a work stopper for someone with a lone ShopSmith.
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MK V 520; MK V 510 w/PP DIY Upgrade; MK 5 500; Jointer; Bandsaw; Sliding Table; Conical Sanding Disk; Sharpening Guide, Lathe Duplicator, Jigsaw, Scrollsaw, Beltsander, Ring Master, Biscuit Joiner.