roneg wrote:JPG. Unless I'm mistaken your describing a style of eccentric blushing my machine does not posess. The bushing in fact is flush In fact it is not!and screw and washer is in place. My previous post was related to the bearing position in the outer case only. The pix you provide I have seen. It does show the bushing screw, and washer well.
However the birds eye view could be deceiving as to how far the bearing protrudes out of the head-stock. One problem here is the many different ways these were manufactured in the years past.
I am not aware of any other ways the eccentric was manufactured other than the current two bearing design. Yours is not of the newer design. The older design(what you have) is a water` pump bearing. The current design has two standard ball bearings. The bearing is located within the eccentric by that set screw in the eccentric that positions the bearing within the eccentric bushing. The screw and washer force the eccentric to be flush with the headstock. The screw on yours is not doing that.
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Yours clearly has neither the eccentric nor the bearing flush with the headstock casting as the screw and washer are intended to provide.
IF you have installed the newer idler shaft design(I do not think so) then the eccentric is incorrect. With the shaft bearing design change, the eccentric was also redesigned and they must match. The new design has a second screw that forces the bearing to be flush with the eccentric.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Sorry JPG but I'm confused. Are you calling the screw and washer shown in our pix a set screw? Do you mean to say the idler shaft that I just removed and installed has a groove in it for a set screw that does not exist in my eccentric (bushing) that has no threads nor hole drilled for? Again I'm confused. I can assure you there is no groove. Water pump bearing, or no.
I agree the (bushing) is not perfectly flush, I've not read any information to the fact of the importance of such a thing. Obviously if my (bushing) had the set screw, and my bearing had the groove, this slight difference would not be possible.. all things being equal, or should I say installed properly.
Perhaps the idler shaft is required to be pressed into the head-stock? Perhaps the bearing is wrong, or installed improperly.
There is a set screw in the eccentric bushing that secures it in position on the water pump bearing. There is, also, a Phillips head screw and washer (shown in your photo). That washer, if properly positioned, prevents the idler shaft from drifting too far out of the headstock casting.
The newer design adds a screw that would be seen in your photo image, if it existed, that appears to do the same thing. I'll edit into this post later with an image of that eccentric.
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"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
When Dusty posts his pix you will notice a second screw tapped into the eccentric.
Both prevent stuff from creeping out of the headstock.
The older design with the single screw tapped into the headstock prevents the eccentric from creeping out of the headstock. The bearing is prevented from creeping out of the eccentric by the set screw in the groove in the bearing.
The newer design also uses the screw and washer to prevent the eccentric from creeping out. The newer design does NOT have the groove in the water pump bearing so a second screw tapped into the eccentric prevents the bearing from creeping out of the eccentric.
In addition the new design eccentric is 'different'. The older design is closed at the narrowest(thickness from the od of the bearing bore and the od of the eccentric itself) wall of the eccentric, whereas the newer design is open(groove all the way through the wall).
Both make use of the bolt under the eccentric bore in the headstock which goes through the ears below the eccentric bore.(NEVER over tighten the bolt beyond making the split lockwasher more than just flattened). The older design squeezes the eccentric, but the newer design also squeezes the eccentric, by the openbore(groove) of the eccentric also squeezing the bearing when the headstock bolt is tightened.
In either design, the bolt MUST be loosened to move the 'stuff' in/out of the bore in the headstock(NO hammer required).
Verbose to be sure. but I think necessary.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Thank you gentelmen for your wisdom. It occured to me last night I was confusing the idler, and drive shaft in my mind. I see now JPG
Why you said "a hammer is not relevant to this" correct you are! That was the drive shaft. As for the eccentric bushing..is there a third style? I wish mine was still apart. It has no set screw or even an allowence for one. It does however have a complete "slit" in it. Meaning it does not completly incompassed the ldler bearing. So it would seem from giving this bearing position thing some thought
It should just be a matter of disconnecting the control quadrant loosen the allan screw nut on the idler bushing/bearing and sliding the idler shaft into the headstock to the "flush" position. No?
Thank you dusty for those pix.
The complete slit in the eccentric bushing allows for some flexibility in the bushing that does not exist without the slit. That flexibility allows for slight compression of the bushing onto the bearing when the eccentric is securing in the headstock casting.
The slit has no relationship to the retaining screws or the set screw. I do not believe there is a model eccentric bushing with both the set screw and the full length slit. As for an eccentric (new style) with a full length slit, I have never seen one without the screw and washer but these changes could have been made incrementally.
I acquired my first new style idler shaft assembly just before the PowerPro was announced (if recollection serves me well). It is my belief that the redesign of this assembly (the introduction of new bearings) was necessitated by the pending introduction of the PowerPro with its higher shaft speeds.
I acquired a new drive shaft assembly at that same time. I see no differences in that new assembly when compared to my older one except that it has a different pair of bearings which might have also been in anticipation of higher shaft speeds..
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
dusty wrote:
The slit has no relationship to the retaining screws or the set screw. I do not believe there is a model eccentric bushing with both the set screw and the full length slit.
That would be mine. Somehow I got it into my head both you and JPG were convinced the eccentric bushing had to have a set screw! And that my bearing must have a groove. As you can see mine looks nothing like either of the ones shown previously.
Another interesting sidenote, found this in the paperwork supplied by the deceased PO's sister. This is the badge on my machine.
I loosened the idler shaft bearing Allen screw, Moved the quadrant assembly arm as far back as I could..even removed speed control handle to access the high speed stop screw so as to back it out for more movement, and space for the control sheave, and idler shaft to move into the headstock to a "flush" position on the bearing , and headstock.. It is resisting this position.
Before I did the quadrant assembly adjustment (to allow for even more room) I just loosened the Allen screw, and pushed the bearing/shaft into the headstock, while turning the sheaves. After the shaft slid to the "flush" position, I then tightened the screw back to (only flatten) the split lock washer. Started the machine without any poly v belt change in groove position. The shaft pushed out on it's own again! That would explain why it ended up that waty in the pix you saw JPG. Also why I was so confused as to why it was that way. I thought I had originally set it that way. This is with it moved back one notch to allow for moving the idler shaft back. This is the original position I set it prior.
So..it has occurred to me the question. Why did not SS just provide a larger washer on the eccentric bushing to cover the bearing also? wouldn't that stop the bearing "creep" I'm experiencing?
As you can see mine looks nothing like either of the ones shown previously. 
This is the badge on my machine. 
This is the original position I set it prior. 