Shopsmith Forums

The best view is the 3rd picture and those 2 solder jobs on the connectors look a little suspect.

Yeah, the solder on the other two wires look worst, but I couldn't take a picture without really bending the wires. Guess I'll be doing some soldering =).

Other things to work on:

The two boards that make up the bench are different lengths and extend several inches passed the metal leg. Thinking I will just cut the boards to the same length.
Question 4 - Will keeping the boards longer have any impact? For example when using it as a drill press?

Question 5 - Is the end clamp for the table saw rip fence intended to be used with the shaper?

I took apart the shaper to clean and noticed the two clamps are not the same and my rip fence is missing the end clamp. Looking online, the squared off clamp look like it should be with the fence not the shaper.

Yours is the later Model 10ER with the shorter Base and would normally have the 2 hole Headrest. The Jointer Headrest fits the same. The 2 x 8 should be 57" long for the later 10ER's. The center hole at the back of the Base goes through the predrilled hole on the metal bench ends. The Headrest mounting bolts go through the two other larger pre drilled holes in the metal bench ends. The four smaller pre drilled holes in each metal bench end are for the bolts to mount the boards to. If everything is currently spaced right than you should be able to use the existing holes in the boards to mount everything and simply trim off the excess on the boards. Some owners like to have a little overhang of the benchtop boards. John did that with a 10ER he restored and it is a beautiful bench not to mention an excellent restoration.

In your question 5 you last said,

Looking online, the squared off clamp look like it should be with the fence not the shaper.

That is correct. The Shaper clamp is current part number 5130879 and listed as (S)CLAMP-SHAPER(MACH ... $13.64 on the SS website. The cap screw in the rear fence lock is for the Shaper Fence. The Rear Fence Lock Knob will look like the one picture below.
In the third picture of your original post it looks like that Back Lock Knob is in the box top with other knobs.

ahh...thanks again Russ for the detailed information and the part number.

Some progress photos -

Oooooh, shiny. and nice tan lines.

My Ebay purchase arrived today!

Your restoration is coming along nicely. Your model 10ER is looking great. I'm glad to see you are taking time to get some pictures as you progress. After all the time it takes getting the parts cleaned up, polished, painted, etc. putting it back together goes quickly. Before you know it it's together and ready to work. I have restored ones with hardly any pictures taken. I only had before and after pictures than it it was sold and gone. Now I wish I had taken more pictures of all of my restorations. Currently I take pictures of each individual part and assemblies to catalog changes made to the Model 10 during their production.

Nice additions for your 10ER. Having the Belt Guard will make it look more original plus adds a measure of safety. The Drum Sander you bought is a much later one, as per the part number. It has been made like that since late 1953. It will have a 5/16" set screw instead of the 1/4" set screw that came on the ones made during the Model 10 era and that's its only difference. Being newer though the rudder sleeve is probably more flexible. I have replaced the rubber sleeve on at least a half dozen older Drum Sanders. The set screw size won't be that noticeable though. It is one of the nice things about the Shopsmith's as they can use accessories made much later than the tool itself.