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Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 2:12 am
by iclark
I bought 2 RotoZips in the last year: one in VA and one in FL.
IIRC, middle of the 3 model grades in both cases.
in each case, I found them well behaved, they did the job that I needed done with no issue other than generating a lot of dust.

in one case, I needed to cut an access panel in wall board in a linen closet on the back side of a shower. the RotoZip was, by far, the easiest way that I have done one of these access panels.

in the other case, I had to open a hole in paneling (~1" pine) to access an electrical wall box - the builder who added the sun room in the lanai had put tongue-and-groove knotty pine paneling over the electrical box with ~1/2" hole for the wires to come out (with a wall sconce screwed to the paneling over the hole). I cut the access hole with the RotoZip in ~3 progressive depth settings and the new sconce is now properly mounted to the electrical box. I was not happy working that close to the wiring , but that is a comment on me rather than the tool. I had the power off, but I really did not want to snag a wire and have to figure out how to pull new wires.

the side-cutting spiral bits worked well in both wall board and in wood paneling but I didn't use them long enough to comment on their longevity.

I liked the supplied RotoZip handle and used it. the RotoZip seemed to handle more easily than the Dremels that I have used, but, in fairness, I generally was using the Dremels on more challenging materials or on odd-shaped surfaces.

in hindsight, I think that I approached the RotoZip as a small fixed-base router while I had been approaching the Dremels as souped-up engraving tools.

I don't want to jinx anything, but there are several tools in my shop that scare me more the RotoZip does. it was certainly better behaved for me than my first plunge router.

Ivan

Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:42 am
by ryanbp01
I was watching one of the early morning infomercials this morning on the Multimaster getting ready for work. I think if I was involved in remodeling my house a few years back and knew about this tool, I would be able to make a strong case for purchasing it. But I don't know about now. Same goes for the Supercut. Before purchasing any tool in this category, I would be doing some research such as in Consumer Reports before shelling out money for this plus any manufacturer information (warranties, etc.). Of course, if the tool were to be demonstrated at a store, it would also influence my purchasing decision. I guess it all comes down to whether or not this type of tool would be used enough to justify the cost? In my case, I'm not sure it would.

BPR

Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 10:12 am
by Ed in Tampa
To you guys having problems with Rotozip, are you aware there are special bits made that are made especially for tracking around electrical outlet boxes?

The normal rotozip kit doesn't have these but you can buy a bit that has a smooth section that will ride on the electical box. At the very tip it is built to puncture the dry wall then the next section is smooth to follow the outlet and then there is the cutting section.

Also the sell carbide and harden bits. I found these last about ten times longer than the normal bits.

I think the fear factor comes from the noise and dust. It takes time to get pass all the bluster of it all.

Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 3:12 pm
by rdubbs
calver wrote:Rick,

<snip> I don't know what blade would actually work for doing cut outs in fiberboard cement siding.
Any experience with that type of siding?

Thanks,

Dave C.
Hi Dave,

I don't have any experience cutting fiberboard cement siding. I would think that the blades designed for metal and wood could get though that material, but I don't know how long they would last. Did you ask the manager to put on a new blade?

Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 3:40 pm
by calver
Hi Rick,

I found another woodworking store in Mesa AZ, Timber Woodworking that I can try out the multimaster with different blades. The people there thought a segmented carbide blade would work and they invited me to bring in my material to try it out. Also the local Fein rep said he would replace any blade that I used for that task . Pretty good customer service offered so far. I will try to get over to the store latter this week.

Thanks ,
Dave C.

Came across these replacement blades

Posted: Wed Mar 18, 2009 8:50 am
by lmtxprss
http://multiblades.com/specialtyblades.html

This blade contains hundreds of tungsten
carbide particles and is meant for making
plunge cuts in plaster.
It works well on 1/2" cement backerboards
like HardiBacker and Wonderboard.
It is very efficient at making plunge cuts like
for example, to create an opening for an
electrical outlet.

It produces very little dust.
Swivel the tool slightly as you make the cut
and apply light to moderate force.
This one is a tough, contractor grade blade
that will pay for itself a few times over.

Tungsten-carbide grit edge.
Its width is 1-1/2", 3" long.
Sold 2 blades in a pack.
One pack with 2 blades, $24. Free shipping.
calver wrote:
My need for a tool like the MM was fro cutting out electrical boxes in fiber cement board siding and drywall.

Dave C.

Posted: Wed Mar 18, 2009 12:14 pm
by JPG
Ed in Tampa wrote:To you guys having problems with Rotozip, are you aware there are special bits made that are made especially for tracking around electrical outlet boxes?

The normal rotozip kit doesn't have these but you can buy a bit that has a smooth section that will ride on the electical box. At the very tip it is built to puncture the dry wall then the next section is smooth to follow the outlet and then there is the cutting section.

Also the sell carbide and harden bits. I found these last about ten times longer than the normal bits.

I think the fear factor comes from the noise and dust. It takes time to get pass all the bluster of it all.
The bits which come with the Rotozip (non-carbide) DO dull very quickly especially if cutting something abrasive(dry wall)[cement board:eek: ].

This tool is the best thing I have found for making holes in ceramic tile. Keep the dust out of the motor ventilation holes. It builds up and causes Rotozip to get HOT!!! Judicious use of the foot plate makes controlling it easier.

Part of the scary part IS IMHO that it is so small and easily knocked off work(likes to bounce around) and the on torque spike! Free hand IS NOT easy.

The later models(larger/heavier) are less scary. I have 2(one small, 1 later model(NOT largest).

Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 6:59 am
by foxtrapper
There was no fear factor with the rotozip for me, I just found the tool disapointing.

Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 7:04 pm
by fjimp
foxtrapper wrote:There was no fear factor with the rotozip for me, I just found the tool disapointing.

Now that's what I admire a person who's thinking places them above fear.

I for one find a tool with bits moving at a high rate of speed which I am unable to control very scary. But then I am kind of old and some days unsure of myself. fjimp

Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 7:36 pm
by JPG
fjimp wrote:Now that's what I admire a person who's thinking places them above fear.
. . . fjimp
ASSUMING thinking IS involved!:rolleyes: