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The parts below were painted wirh rustoleum hammer tone copper. I have attempted to illustrate the fairly forgiving properties of this paint. The initial painting was done on a WINDY day(the rain WAS coming) and the spray can was held VERY close. This resulted in runs and funky finish. Two examples are in this post, and two more in the next post(by me).

The prep on the end castings was minimal(Brief Light Sanding).

[ATTACH]4518[/ATTACH]

Obvious RUN

[ATTACH]4519[/ATTACH]

After 'fixing'(two passes)

[ATTACH]4520[/ATTACH]

Scratches showing through first coat

[ATTACH]4521[/ATTACH]

After a couple of overcoats.

This is a continuation of a previous post illustrating the forgiving attributes of rustoleum hammertone copper paint. Shown below are a ding repair and a funky finish repair attempt.

[ATTACH]4522[/ATTACH]

Bumped it and dinged the edge

[ATTACH]4523[/ATTACH]

After a fix pass. I will do another pass to fill the 'hole'

[ATTACH]4524[/ATTACH]

Uneven pigment distribution

[ATTACH]4525[/ATTACH]

Not as successful as the others. I will be giving this another pass also

[ATTACH]4526[/ATTACH]


Group Portrait:)

JPG40504 wrote:This is a continuation of a previous post illustrating the forgiving attributes of rustoleum hammertone copper paint. Shown below are a ding repair and a funky finish repair attempt.

[ATTACH]4522[/ATTACH]

Bumped it and dinged the edge

[ATTACH]4523[/ATTACH]

After a fix pass. I will do another pass to fill the 'hole'

[ATTACH]4524[/ATTACH]

Uneven pigment distribution

[ATTACH]4525[/ATTACH]

Not as successful as the others. I will be giving this another pass also

[ATTACH]4526[/ATTACH]


Group Portrait:)

These all show just how much work goes into a restoration while at the same time showing just how great the 'ole girl' looks after a little TLC.

If you guys keep this up, I'm going to just have to go buy a basket case to retrofit.

Farmer, I remember 2006 and you spent most of your time on the road with road trips as I recall. I am still looking for one of them RAS but none have been close enough. When I did the ER restor I took it all down to bear metal and was pretty easy to do. After a good primer and then I used the darker hammer gray finish sure looked pretty good. Right now I am working on a hammer gold ER as a drill press. I have not decided yet to redo my brownie as it is in pretty good shape right now.

Looks like it's coming along quite nicely!! Doing the inside of the castings really puts an nice touch on the job.

Have you decided on your topcoat color(s) yet?

wlhayesmfs wrote:Farmer, I remember 2006 and you spent most of your time on the road with road trips as I recall. I am still looking for one of them RAS but none have been close enough. When I did the ER restor I took it all down to bear metal and was pretty easy to do. After a good primer and then I used the darker hammer gray finish sure looked pretty good. Right now I am working on a hammer gold ER as a drill press. I have not decided yet to redo my brownie as it is in pretty good shape right now.

If you can remember 2006 Bill you are doing better than I am... I don't even remember all of today.
In 2007 I was running around acquiring boot and shoe rebuilding equipment mostly. Most of it is tougher to haul than Shopsmiths.
Many of those road trips were making up for over 20 years without a vacation.
-
I'm having so much trouble getting in any shop time lately I may have to see a woodworker friend and borrow a bucket of sawdust...

JPG40504 wrote:The parts below were painted wirh rustoleum hammer tone copper. I have attempted to illustrate the fairly forgiving properties of this paint. The initial painting was done on a WINDY day(the rain WAS coming) and the spray can was held VERY close. This resulted in runs and funky finish. Two examples are in this post, and two more in the next post(by me).

The prep on the end castings was minimal(Brief Light Sanding).

I can really appreciate the difficulties you had spraying outside with even the slightest breeze. The paint is too sensitive for that as I found out also. Fortunately, I found out when doing test sprays on sheet metal. The two problems painting the any breeze is exactly how you described it, texture issues and running. That's why on paint day, I am outside at the crack of dawn and painting as soon as the light is adequate to clearly see. For me, today is paint day. Doing my jigsaw parts. It's 5:45am and I'm ready to go.

Nice close up shots. Good long depth of field obviously shows a smaller aperture used.

mickyd wrote:I can really appreciate the difficulties you had spraying outside with even the slightest breeze. The paint is too sensitive for that as I found out also. Fortunately, I found out when doing test sprays on sheet metal. The two problems painting the any breeze is exactly how you described it, texture issues and running. That's why on paint day, I am outside at the crack of dawn and painting as soon as the light is adequate to clearly see. For me, today is paint day. Doing my jigsaw parts. It's 5:45am and I'm ready to go.

Nice close up shots. Good long depth of field obviously shows a smaller aperture used.

Close ups done in "macro" mode. You know the flower symbol.

I'm about to the point of painting my greenie. I've searched "Painting" and did not come up with definitive answers to the questions below. I've stripped mine down to bare aluminum/metal and am going to use self-etching primer.

For those of you that have used Hammered paint and have a few years use on the paint job, did you sand/prep before painting and between coats? Did you use a sealer/topcoat/clearcoat?
Thanks, Monte

I'm about to the point of painting my greenie. I've searched "Painting" and did not come up with definitive answers to the questions below. I've stripped mine down to bare aluminum/metal and am going to use self-etching primer.

For those of you that have used Hammered paint and have a few years use on the paint job, did you sand/prep before painting and between coats? Did you use a sealer/topcoat/clearcoat?
Thanks, Monte (sorry if this got posted twice:)