Shopsmith Forums

wildthings wrote:Do tell please what's the trick to getting the spring compressed enough to put the retaining ring back in place?? YIKES!!

I think a bearing puller or press would be helpful.

JPG40504 wrote:I think a bearing puller or press would be helpful.

Thanks jpg my mind was blank and didn't even think of the new HF bearing tool. It worked flawlessly

I agree the HF bearing does a great job of reassembling the drive sleeve after clutch inspection. The clutch comes apart easily by removing the external snap ring.

To get the snap ring back in and compress the clutch spring, the bearing puller jaws were reversed to use the bottom of the bearing separator to get as close as possible to the snap ring as it is pulled up the shaft. The components were assembled on the shaft with the snap ring on the middle step of the drive sleeve shaft. The bearing puller jaws arranged to push the snap ring, and spring into the cogged pulley. The snap ring could be heard snaping into the groove with about 1/2 turn of the puller lead screw left before the jaw touched the pulley. Very Good.

nNewby with a greenie. While I'm replacing the bearings on my dive sleeve I when into the gilmer clutch and found that mine has 5 fiber and 3 metal plates. the stack is such that thier is no metal plate on either end. I'm thinking that the fiber plate on the ends rides on the aluminum not on a metal plate I don't think thats a good idea. How about you? Thanks Pete

I alternate starting with a metal plate on the hub and ending with a fiber disk. I believe I use 4 pairs of metal and fiber plates. I use an extra washer on the spring when assembling the clutch. Then add or remove a washer depending on the torque reading (12-16 ft pds).

thanks that is what I did. It tested at 20 ft lbs. I'm going to leave like that. Now I'm going to replace the quil bearing and I need some advice, got any suggestions?