Shopsmith Forums

putttn wrote:I do have the telephone and the shop lights (2tubes) running off a extension panel (5 plugins) like you'd see in a office for office machines. There is also one of those tin clip on lights with a 75 watt bulb running off that strip. If I try and run the SS with my 330 it will trip the breaker too. I run it off another circuit.

If I had your problem right now, the first thing I would do is validate the "20amp circuit" that you are using.

Is it truly a 20amp circuit or is it a 14ga home run with a 20amp breaker? You should be able to utilize any of the SPT mounted on the Shopsmith on a 15amp circuit. The small devises that you describe as sharing this service are negligible.

To make certain I was comfortable with what I just said, I just ran the Shopsmith with the band saw and the DC3300 on the same 15amp circuit to see if it would trip the breaker. It did not. The dust collector was turned on first and then the Shopsmith (at saw speed) was turned on.

I repeated this test again, with a small lamp plugged into the same circuit. I wanted to see if the light would dim during the Shopsmith start up. It did not. This one test alone tells me that the voltage on that 15amp circuit did not drop significantly during the Shopsmith start up. If the circuit was being loaded at a level greater than it was designed for (wired for), the voltage would not remain stable (the light would dim momentarily).

puttn
Can you momentarily move your entire operation to a different location (or power it from a different circuit). This would either convict your Mark V as a current hog or convict the circuit you have been using as inadequate.

Are you operating in a location where power is logically assumed to be adequate. If you are in the wood shed out back, at the far end of the south forty, the answer is NO.

Yes, I can easily run it to a different circuit. I am running it in my garage and it is less than 8 feet from the breaker box.
I'll try that tonight and see what happens.

Ed in Tampa wrote:Dusty
I think 12 gauge wire is only good for 20 amp breakers if you want 30 amps you must go to 8 gauge wire. I don't think I ever saw a 30 amp 110 breaker used. Usually anything over 20 amps automatically goes to 220.

US National Electrical Code
maximum Amperage AWG Wire Size
18 ------------------- 7
16 ------------------10
14 ------------------15
12-------------------20
10-------------------25
8--------------------35
6--------------------45
4--------------------60
2------------------- 80

Hi Ed!

I do knot live in sunny Florida, but here in Washington a 30amp circuit requires a minimum wire size of 10ga. Also, in sunny Florida, I believe there are many RV owners. I have only seen two types of plugs on RV's]10 GAUGE IS 'TYPICAL' FOR 30A CIRCUITS WITH 'SHORT' RUNS.[/quote]

[quote="a1gutterman"]Hi Ed!

I do knot live in sunny Florida, but here in Washington a 30amp circuit requires a minimum wire size of 10ga. Also, in sunny Florida, I believe there are many RV owners. I have only seen two types of plugs on RV's]
I intentially did not define short since it is subjective. Over 100' is certainly not short. The concern is the voltage drop experienced with 'long' runs. Also since the 30A wire size is 'missing' in the previous chart I merely wanted to state what is 'typically' used with 30A breakers.

I notice that running at C seems really slow. Also, maybe the blade, but everything I cut seems to smell like the wood is burning and when I get done I notice that the plywood has a very dark color like it has been burned. Doubt this has anything to do with the breaker issue.
I did run it off another circuit and intentionally ran the speed up with the bandsaw and instead of the breaker tripping it just got to a high speed and then slowed back down.. kind of like a governor.
I had both blades running..didn't disconnect the circular blade.

putttn wrote:I notice that running at C seems really slow. Also, maybe the blade, but everything I cut seems to smell like the wood is burning and when I get done I notice that the plywood has a very dark color like it has been burned. Doubt this has anything to do with the breaker issue.
I did run it off another circuit and intentionally ran the speed up with the bandsaw and instead of the breaker tripping it just got to a high speed and then slowed back down.. kind of like a governor.
I had both blades running..didn't disconnect the circular blade.

QUIT running the bandsaw at speeds above D!!!!!!!!!!!:)

putttn wrote:I notice that running at C seems really slow. Also, maybe the blade, but everything I cut seems to smell like the wood is burning and when I get done I notice that the plywood has a very dark color like it has been burned. Doubt this has anything to do with the breaker issue.
I did run it off another circuit and intentionally ran the speed up with the bandsaw and instead of the breaker tripping it just got to a high speed and then slowed back down.. kind of like a governor.
I had both blades running..didn't disconnect the circular blade.

Hmmm. Wood burning, Hmmm. Maybe you should try a sharp saw blade.

Please, when you throw a blade off that blade saw by running at high speed - DO NOT post any pictures. It could be ugly.

Yeah, I'm learning a lot thanks to all you guys and the help. I am really skittish running the bandsaw up to high speeds and just doing it to see if the breaker will trip.
Do most of you disengage the regular circular blade when running the bandsaw?

putttn wrote:I notice that running at C seems really slow. Also, maybe the blade, but everything I cut seems to smell like the wood is burning and when I get done I notice that the plywood has a very dark color like it has been burned. Doubt this has anything to do with the breaker issue.
I did run it off another circuit and intentionally ran the speed up with the bandsaw and instead of the breaker tripping it just got to a high speed and then slowed back down.. kind of like a governor.
I had both blades running..didn't disconnect the circular blade.

Let me chime in here- just to emphasize that you should never run the bandsaw faster than speed 'D'.

Also, I might as well tell you that my bandsaw always runs at speed 'B'. That's fast enough! When it doesn't saw easily any longer, change blades! They are a lot cheaper than the alternatives.

Your bandsaw should be free turning with a tensioned blade. If you can tension a blade in your saw and turn the lower wheel by the power shaft and the saw will actually coast after giving it a fast twist - your electrical problem is not with your saw. If your saw is not that free turning - you have a saw problem. Because you have been running it at those high speeds - check your bearings, and be sure to grease your upper bearing. Also check your guide blocks.

putttn wrote:Yeah, I'm learning a lot thanks to all you guys and the help. I am really skittish running the bandsaw up to high speeds and just doing it to see if the breaker will trip.
Do most of you disengage the regular circular blade when running the bandsaw?

Sometimes I leave the circular blade on - BUT - when I do - I also leave the lower blade guard on and cover the top of the blade with the main table.