Shopsmith Forums

HopefulSSer,

I wish I would have taken more pictures during my earlier restorations. I have restored two Greenies so far. The picture in my previous post is the 1956 Greenie I restored that has the one screw and if I recall correctly the Eccentric set screw for the Bearing. I don't have any detail pictures of the other Greenie. The 1957 Greenie I have waiting to be restored was upgraded by my wife's uncle so no help there. The screw in the Eccentric is to stop the Assembly from going into the Headstock so even if the Bearing sits slightly past the Eccentric the screw would still limit the inward travel.

You said,

So if it had both, someone would be likely to either: 1. tighten the setscrew first, then honk down on the face screw until it stripped or broke the tip of the setscrew, or 2. tighten the face screw first then (possibly) wouldn't be able to tighten the setscrew enough to insert the eccentric.

1 would be the more likely scenario for damage. The screw in your case should only be snugged up against the Bearing then, not the Eccentric.

2 is not as likely since the screw in the Eccentric could keep it from going through the mounting in the Headstock Casting unless turned so the screw passes through the gap at the bottom. When installing the Idler Shaft Assembly, the least tension for the Gilmer Belt or a Poly V for that matter, would have the screw slightly away from the gap. The least amount of tension on the belt equals the easiest installation.

The best time to install the Eccentric screw is after the Idler Shaft Assembly is in place. Again, snug not gorilla tight.

Getterdone,

You can swap the 3/4 HP Motor for a 1-1/8 HP Motor using the same Belt and Motor Pan. I have an April 1961 Goldie with the special "C" Gilmer Drive that has the same Gilmer "C" Drive Sleeve Assembly as the March 1961 Goldie John Dalton has. The difference is John's has the 3/4 HP Motor from the factory while mine has the 1-1/8 HP Motor from the factory. If the clutch is working properly there shouldn't be a problem.

Now, that being said is this a Mark 5 you plan to use much? If not, then why go through the trouble of changing the Motor? You have a number of Mark 5/V's and could use any of them as your primary one depending on which one(s) you keep. If you are going to use this one much then you may want to consider the upgrade to Poly V and a double Bearing Quill. Just my 22 cents worth. No longer 2 cents because of inflation.

I agee - one or the other, not both. The upper screw needs to be added if not present(be very careful drilling the casting).

If the new split eccentric is used, then the set screw becomes moot.

JPG wrote: Tue Nov 12, 2024 5:23 pm I agee - one or the other, not both. The upper screw needs to be added if not present(be very careful drilling the casting).

If the new split eccentric is used, then the set screw becomes moot.

Thank You.
This makes Sence.

chapmanruss wrote: Tue Nov 12, 2024 1:25 pm
Getterdone,

You can swap the 3/4 HP Motor for a 1-1/8 HP Motor using the same Belt and Motor Pan. I have an April 1961 Goldie with the special "C" Gilmer Drive that has the same Gilmer "C" Drive Sleeve Assembly as the March 1961 Goldie John Dalton has. The difference is John's has the 3/4 HP Motor from the factory while mine has the 1-1/8 HP Motor from the factory. If the clutch is working properly there shouldn't be a problem.

Now, that being said is this a Mark 5 you plan to use much? If not, then why go through the trouble of changing the Motor? You have a number of Mark 5/V's and could use any of them as your primary one depending on which one(s) you keep. If you are going to use this one much then you may want to consider the upgrade to Poly V and a double Bearing Quill. Just my 22 cents worth. No longer 2 cents because of inflation.

Thank you for that Information.

This helps a lot.
I will use your 22 cents Phrase

I like that inflation thing.

I think I will keep it with the 3/4 hp motor for now.

I have got my brother into these SS machines also.

He will get one of these Machines.

He was there today when I was slicing 2'" insulation for the well pump cover.

I was using my 50th anniversary 510 to cut the 2" sheets.

I have been searching thru the old threads for answers about paint colors.

I am going to ask since some of those are older threads.

The Shopsmith Dark green and Light Green touchup paint is on sale right now.

Is this a close match for a Greenie?

Now I have been made aware the the Rustoleum Verde Green is discontinued.

I called Rustoleum's service center to ask if they was going to possible ever produce this color green again.

And the answer was as I expected. No.

I do not think any SS touch up paint for the older colors has ever been close since fading is an issue with older versions.

JPG wrote: Thu Nov 21, 2024 3:37 pm I do not think any SS touch up paint for the older colors has ever been close since fading is an issue with older versions.

This is good to know.
Thanks

The Shopsmith Touch-up Paint is not a perfect match for the Greenies and is not a hammered finish. Neither was the Rust-oleum Hammered Finish Verde Green being a bit more bluish but was popular as a substitute. I have used it and do like the result. Greenies are green and silver not dark and light green which is what Shopsmith sells. If you want to use the Shopsmith Touch-up Paint I would use the dark green and Rust-oleum Hammered Finish Silver.

I have been looking for an option for painting Greenies I have to restore. Currently a Mark 5, a Mark 2, a Bandsaw and a Jig Saw. I haven't found a very good match yet for the green. Once I find a green color I like, I will test it with a topcoat of Rust-oleum clear Hammered Finish paint to see if it will give it that original hammered finish look.

Has anyone found a green paint they like?