Having trouble with my upper saw guard.

greitz · Post by **greitz** » Fri May 29, 2009 11:32 am

Dusty- You're welcome. I prefer the easy (and free) solutions myself. Paint has been part of Windows for a long, long time, so if you have any old Windows manuals, there are probably tutorials in there, as well as the on-line help files.

My wife's much better with Paint (and other Microsoft products) than I am. If you have questions, I'd be happy to ask her for assistance.

Gary

navycop · Post by **navycop** » Fri May 29, 2009 11:40 am

I noticed something in the pictures. It appears you bearly have the stop screw out. I had to adjust mine till it was almost falling out to get the splitter to sit right.

greitz · Post by **greitz** » Fri May 29, 2009 11:51 am

Navycop- are you sure your saw blade arbor is fully seated onto the quill shaft? Are you using the correct saw blade arbor for your model Shopsmith?Once in a while I notice that the saw blade and riving knife are no longer aligned, and the problem has always been that the saw blade arbor screw was a bit loose, and that allowed the saw blade to move away from the headstock just a bit. I've replaced a couple of arbor screws when they just won't tighten enough any more to keep the blade from creeping.

Gary

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri May 29, 2009 12:01 pm

greitz wrote:Navycop- are you sure your saw blade arbor is fully seated onto the quill shaft? Are you using the correct saw blade arbor for your model Shopsmith?Once in a while I notice that the saw blade and riving knife are no longer aligned, and the problem has always been that the saw blade arbor screw was a bit loose, and that allowed the saw blade to move away from the headstock just a bit. I've replaced a couple of arbor screws when they just won't tighten enough any more to keep the blade from creeping.

Gary

WHAT is 'wearing out' on the screws to prevent them from tightening?

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri May 29, 2009 12:10 pm

JPG40504 wrote:WHAT is 'wearing out' on the screws to prevent them from tightening?

This is not intended as an answer to your question but rather is a comment provoked by the question. I have had a couple occasions when I found the arbor to not be where I thought I had set it and it wasn't as secure as I like. As a direct result, I have developed the habit of occasionally discarding the arbor set screw and putting in a new one. I don't inspect or evaluate the screw - I just "discard" it.

When I find a set screw on the floor, it scares the bejeebers out of me because I don't know what is loose. When that happens, I spend a few minutes to check the screws on those items that I have used recently.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri May 29, 2009 12:25 pm

navycop wrote:I noticed something in the pictures. It appears you bearly have the stop screw out. I had to adjust mine till it was almost falling out to get the splitter to sit right.

I assume we are discussing the images in post #16 of this thread. If so, image #1 (Everything Mounted) shows the lower saw guard and the arbor as I believe they should be mounted. I pull the saw guard up against the headstock as tight as I can get it and secure the lock screw while holding it there. I then push the saw blade onto the arbor shaft as far as it will go before I tighten the arbor set screw.

In image #3 (Riving Knife Adjustment Screw) you see the position that my set screw is in. It hardly ever gets changed. If you change blade or arbor styles, this may not hold true. This entire adjustment is a relational thing and adjustments are required according to those relational changes.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri May 29, 2009 12:27 pm

dusty wrote:This is not intended as an answer to your question but rather is a comment provoked by the question. I have had a couple occasions when I found the arbor to not be where I thought I had set it and it wasn't as secure as I like. As a direct result, I have developed the habit of occasionally discarding the arbor set screw and putting in a new one. I don't inspect or evaluate the screw - I just "discard" it.

When I find a set screw on the floor, it scares the bejeebers out of me because I don't know what is loose. When that happens, I spend a few minutes to check the screws on those items that I have used recently.

I have never had a set screw on the floor unless I had just dropped it!(lucky I guess). I HAVE had the arbor 'creep', but have been attributing this to (MY) improperly centering the arbor/screw on the spindle flat. If not tightened at the deepest part of the flat, "It ain't tight" and will become loose. If not noticed, it WILL become looser causing the 'creep'.

I have not felt the need to replace a set screw.

I HAVE noticed an increase in the frequency of creep occurring since I started using the triple bent/newer SS tool kit. The 'handle' deflects' at lower torque than the older L shaped wrench. I have come to the conclusion that when I want something "tight" I should use the older version.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri May 29, 2009 12:32 pm

dusty wrote:I assume we are discussing the images in post #16 of this thread. If so, image #1 (Everything Mounted) shows the lower saw guard and the arbor as I believe they should be mounted. I pull the saw guard up against the headstock as tight as I can get it and secure the lock screw while holding it there. I then push the saw blade onto the arbor shaft as far as it will go before I tighten the arbor set screw.

In image #3 (Riving Knife Adjustment Screw) you see the position that my set screw is in. It hardly ever gets changed. If you change blade or arbor styles, this may not hold true. This entire adjustment is a relational thing and adjustments are required according to those relational changes.

Perhaps the difference in our experience is due to the fact I do NOT have a saw guard(They were an extra cost option in 1963). Thus it is very easy to 'rock the blade' when tightening the set screw. I imagine it is not as easy(accessible) with the guard(s) in place.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri May 29, 2009 12:43 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Perhaps the difference in our experience is due to the fact I do NOT have a saw guard(They were an extra cost option in 1963). Thus it is very easy to 'rock the blade' when tightening the set screw. I imagine it is not as easy(accessible) with the guard(s) in place.

I use the wrench, inserted into the set screw, to rock the arbor on the shaft. As the set screws tightens, you can feel that the screw is tightening onto the flat. Once secure, I flex the wrench about three times - not real hard but hard enough to twist the steel in the allen wrench.

I think the only disagreement we may have on this subject is whether or not allen screws wear out. I don't take a chance. This may be a waste but this is my story and I'm sticking to it.

If one is curious about whether or not he/she is setting the set screw properly just inspect the shaft. If the shaft has any marks created by a set screw "anywhere other than on the flat" the set screw has been improperly seated at least once.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri May 29, 2009 12:53 pm

dusty wrote:I use the wrench, inserted into the set screw, to rock the arbor on the shaft. As the set screws tightens, you can feel that the screw is tightening onto the flat. Once secure, I flex the wrench about three times - not real hard but hard enough to twist the steel in the allen wrench.

I think the only disagreement we may have on this subject is whether or not allen screws wear out. I don't take a chance. This may be a waste but this is my story and I'm sticking to it.

If one is curious about whether or not he/she is setting the set screw properly just inspect the shaft. If the shaft has any marks created by a set screw "anywhere other than on the flat" the set screw has been improperly seated at least once.

I assume YOUR spindle shaft is black oxide. Mine is NOT(natural steel). 45+ years HAVE left their mark!

P.S. YES $0.80 IS cheap insurance!!!