Shopsmith Forums

dusty wrote:Pictures please!!

Some how I failed to get this posted(preview, and forgot to submit???) Sorry for the delay!
[ATTACH]6000[/ATTACH]

The oak is the 'workpiece'.

The MDF is the 'adapter'.

The miter gauge is set to 64º.

The workpiece is 19º from the blade(blade not shown).

keakap wrote:I'm curious: at what point does a "miter" cut become a "taper" cut?

When you use a taper jig and fence instead of a miter gauge.

Hi,

This is my first time reading about the shopsmith version of the 120. It would appear the only difference between the general model and the shopsmith model is the miter bar. I also see shopsmith has a provision to mount a safety grip. I like the idea of the safety grip on a miter gauge and wish my incra 2000 had a way to do that but it is built a lot different:
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... rgauge.htm

I also noticed shopsmith did not offer either the miter gauge fence or any form of the stop positioners. They are something you might want to think very seriously about adding and they are listed on the incra site. Getting the angle right is often only the first step, getting the length right is just as critical.

I also noticed that incra has the manual for the shopsmith edition at their site so if anyone is interested you can get it at:
http://www.incra.com/manuals/MiterV120_ ... dition.pdf

For those who had initial thoughts about the gauge being off must not have read steps 4 and 5 where it explains how to square the head to your shopsmith. Yea I know I do that myself.

Ed

reible wrote:Hi,

This is my first time reading about the shopsmith version of the 120. It would appear the only difference between the general model and the shopsmith model is the miter bar. I also see shopsmith has a provision to mount a safety grip. I like the idea of the safety grip on a miter gauge and wish my incra 2000 had a way to do that but it is built a lot different:
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/swd_incramitergauge.htm

I also noticed shopsmith did not offer either the miter gauge fence or any form of the stop positioners. They are something you might want to think very seriously about adding and they are listed on the incra site. Getting the angle right is often only the first step, getting the length right is just as critical.

I also noticed that incra has the manual for the shopsmith edition at their site so if anyone is interested you can get it at:
http://www.incra.com/manuals/MiterV120_Manual_ShopsmithEdition.pdf

For those who had initial thoughts about the gauge being off must not have read steps 4 and 5 where it explains how to square the head to your shopsmith. Yea I know I do that myself.

Ed

Yup, I got that instruction sheet (somewhere).

reible wrote:Hi,

This is my first time reading about the shopsmith version of the 120. It would appear the only difference between the general model and the shopsmith model is the miter bar. I also see shopsmith has a provision to mount a safety grip. I like the idea of the safety grip on a miter gauge and wish my incra 2000 had a way to do that but it is built a lot different:
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... rgauge.htm

I also noticed shopsmith did not offer either the miter gauge fence or any form of the stop positioners. They are something you might want to think very seriously about adding and they are listed on the incra site. Getting the angle right is often only the first step, getting the length right is just as critical.

I also noticed that incra has the manual for the shopsmith edition at their site so if anyone is interested you can get it at:
http://www.incra.com/manuals/MiterV120_ ... dition.pdf

For those who had initial thoughts about the gauge being off must not have read steps 4 and 5 where it explains how to square the head to your shopsmith. Yea I know I do that myself.

Ed

I can speak to the miter fence from incra. When I first got my V120 and mounted a wood fence to it (3/4 poplar ply - little over 18 x 3 inches) I noticed that there was a bit of flex to the face of the miter. So I figured it would be good for the shorter pieces and I would leave the longer ones to my miter sled.

But - I then found & ordered the 18 - 31inch aluminum fence from incra -- http://www.incrementaltools.com/INCRA_T ... c18-31.htm. That hardens the miter up quite nicely. The downside is that the miter fence is somewhat thick and doesn't leave much room for the safety grip to lock the cut piece.

But all told, this is the first 1-degree accurate miter I have used and it is quite nice.

I've been following this thread but didn't know exactly what the v120 was. Found this interesting marketing video. It takes a little while to load so be patient.

http://www.incra.com/videos/Miter-Gauge_web.wmv

JPG40504 wrote:When you use a taper jig and fence instead of a miter gauge.

Well, I broke down and consulted the SS book and discovered that the miter gauge becomes a taper jig.

Using a miter gauge, a cut goes from a miter to a taper depending on the angle of cut. The author didn't specifically say what the angle is that turns a crosscut into a rip. Logically it would seem to be 44 degrees in a straight grain piece.

So a 19 degree cut is a rip is a taper.

reible wrote: how to square the head to your shopsmith.

... to the blade, not the table surface.

[quote="keakap"]... to the blade, not the table surface.]

Really???

You wouldn't want to bet $20 on that would you?

For education purposes only:
"Fine adjustments to the angle of the fence mounting bracket to
your table top can also be made by loosening the same fasteners and placing a paper shim between the bracket and the underside of the protractor."

See the last sentence of item 5.

You can donate the $20 to your favorite charity.

Ed

reible wrote:Really???

You can donate the $20 to your favorite charity.

Ed

Or to me! PM me I'll give you my address!:rolleyes: