Shopsmith Forums

jmoore65 wrote:Dusty,

Are you concerned about the holding power of the extension table rail bolts? Seems like they'd really have to bite in to handle the downward pressure of the drill press that sometimes builds up.

What do you think the chances the rail bolts would either slip and gouge the rail tubes or have to bite the tubes enough to hold and leave a mark?

Jim

Yes, you have a very good point and if this setup is to be used extensively and especially for any heavy drilling a more stout vertical support system is needed.

I actually took two stop collars off the tail stock to use for that purpose when I realized that they are for the wrong size tubes. But appropriately sized stop collars might work.

I'd like to be able to develop an adjustable stop collar for this.

Sorry, Farmer. I have highjacked your thread.

IMHO this thread has been embellished, not 'hijacked'!

Dusty: FYI http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=2x571&op=search&Ntt=2x571&N=0&sst=subset

If yer really serious re 'tracking' a tilted table, alter a table trunion to fit into the spt mount and adapt it to the extension table.

JPG40504 wrote:IMHO this thread has been embellished, not 'hijacked'!

Absolutely... I am just glad it is still going and I hope it is benefiting a few folks.
-
-

[quote="JPG40504"]IMHO this thread has been embellished, not 'hijacked'!

Dusty: FYI http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=2x571&op=search&Ntt=2x571&N=0&sst=subset

If yer really serious re 'tracking' a tilted table, alter a table trunion to fit into the spt mount and adapt it to the extension table.]Please catch me up to your thinking here. I'm not tracking your comment about incorporating a trunnion into an extension table configuration.

dusty wrote:Farmer, you do good. Though I am not tempted to create a copy of your push/pull arrangement, I was intrigued by your approach to improve stabilization. It works really well on my 520 and it would certainly be the same for a 510. You'll have to work out the details for the others.

I am thinking of ways to make it micro-adjustable when angles other than 90 degrees are needed.

[ATTACH]7939[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]7940[/ATTACH]

I exchanged extension tables so that I could use the support leg down to the floor. The miter track interfered. I understand, Farmer, that you don't intend to use this feature but I feel that this cantilever sort of arrangement allows for some stress on the extension table legs that can be avoided with this modified approach.

Thank you for the ideas. They work great.

One more example of the "erector set approach".

Methinks I mis-construed what you were saying above!:o

Here is a picture of the simple screw-jack concept using iron pipe and All-thread rod.
[ATTACH]7942[/ATTACH]
This is not the piece of All-thread rod I expect to use, it was just a piece of 5/8ths inch I had in a bin of shorts. The pipe is a piece of 1/2" black pipe and is what I will use.
Now I need to explain here that 1/2" pipe is NOT 1/2"... It was 1/2" many years ago but with improving technology the pipe is now thinner walled. Since it is necessary to keep the outside diameter the same for threading etc. reasons the bore is now a lot bigger than 1/2 inch.
If they changed the O.D. it would also mess up all of those pipe based bar clamps.
The idea is to keep it as simple as possible. There are several possible ways to mount the bottom (the bottom is the end at the right of the picture). The simplest is to just have a loose 5/8ths hole as a socket and lock the two nuts at that end together with a stub sticking out far enough to sit in the hole.
The two nuts at the other end will each have a small lever welded to each one so that they can be locked together tight enough to stay put by hand instead of bothering with wrenches. They do not have to be tightened like you are locking Godzilla's cage, just enough to keep them from vibrating out of position. The upper end of the jack also has a lot of different possibilities depending on which table it will support I have not worked out the lengths needed for the two parts yet. The All-thread should still be at least 2" up in the pipe when fully extended. I'll have to just play with it a little to get the dimensions. The cost is low enough to make several sizes.