Shopsmith Forums

reible wrote:OK you guys found me out... had you going there for a while with my photoshop work... Here is the head stock that had the blue tape on it with the photoshopped power pro logo:
[ATTACH]8105[/ATTACH]

There all settled and we can get back to the project at hand.

Ed

It just keeps getting deeper and deeper! Hopefully we all will see one soon!(it is 'March'!)

Thickness sander?????

JPG40504 wrote:It just keeps getting deeper and deeper! Hopefully we all will see one soon!(it is 'March'!)

Thickness sander?????

I think a thickness sander it is and photoshop it is knot, but as I am sure Ed is under some kind of restraint, I will push it no more.

I am so sorry I brought this up guys. Of course we are aware of the testing. I am more curious now of the project I tried a thickness sander years ago and was unable to create the drum I needed that would hold up to the heat the sanding generated. I still have the pillow blocks and a 5/8 in shaft and now my curiosity has been re-sparked. Please continue on the project.

Making sawdust insead of money:rolleyes:

Hi,

Little chilly in the shop today but I wanted to make some progress while at least the sun was shinning.

A while back some one wanted some information on PVC for some pond/pool filter or some such project. I think I have an answer now.

Starting at the end of the day, here is the waste, well some of it is still sticking places or in the vacuum but this it the sweeping up part of it:
[ATTACH]8112[/ATTACH]

The day started out with me looking for my center drills. They are no where to be found so I'll have to pick up a small set. For those that know what they are great, those that don't look them up. The intent was to do one of the shaft ends but off to plan B.

As I had mentioned in an earlier post I wanted to turn the PVC to get it round and concentric with the shaft. This is the first step of a couple to make sure this is going to work. If I can not turn the PVC then it would be back to the drawing board. The PVC pipe is about 3-1/2" outside and about 3" inside. The wall thickness then must be about 1/4". If I take off to much then the tube might flex to much, to little and I might not get it round and concentric. As a guess I figured taking off about .050 off might work. This would then leave the pipe at 3.400". Again as a guess I set the minimum use able size as 3.300.

Plan B, again not my first choice but I didn't feel like going out shopping for center drills today so what I went with was this:
[ATTACH]8113[/ATTACH]

If I have to do it again I would want to use the center drill first, this was not as stable as I hoped for but it did work.

For the drive end this is what I used:
[ATTACH]8114[/ATTACH]

This was at the end of the process. Before I got to this point I tried using a carbide cutter which work until I caught it and gouged out a chunk of PVC, to be honest I'm not to sure what the deal was but there seemed to be 3 places along the piece where problems were happening. So after having this three times I went to a skew, this I have done before on wood so I was a little shocked when the same thing happened. Now I had a scarred up tube that was round but not in very good surface condition.

Take three was going to the roundnose tool and lowering the height. This turned out to work the best and I worked my way down so the blemishes were almost gone. I figured at this point I might be able to save it but if not I would have more practice for a new one.

I'm thinking part of the problem was the long thin ribbons of chips be produced during the cut produced a "ball" at the cutter and got pulled in to the cutting zone causing the issue??? Or, could it have been "soft spots in the PVC? To eliminate the long ribbons I started a move ahead a bit then move back and then forward then back for the whole length. So either the tool change, height change or technique let me finish it up.

When I finally measured I was left with 3.325" go I'm going to try and use it. I would have liked to have not going that far but it is within my "standards" that I set and can be redone if need be at a later time. I forgot to measure when it became round.... sorry about that.

In case it wasn't clear I was starting at the head stock and moving to the tail stock using the carriage like this:
[ATTACH]8115[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]8116[/ATTACH]

I know some of you will be wondering about some of you have seen so I will add one more post tonight with some detail goodies.

Ed

Before I forget one other thing I wanted to mention was the temperature was only 43 degrees so that may be a factor when working with PVC, something I did not attempt to check out.

Now for some of you this might be something that you already know but some of you may not know of some of these shopsmith features. To start with you may have noticed that I had clamped a lathe chisel and used the carriage to control the cut. This will work for a lot of projects and is a handy thing to keep in mind. It does have some limitations so play with it before you comment to a major project with it.

You might have also noticed that use of a lathe faceplate to clamp the tool to. That is an older version of the 3-3/4" shopsmith faceplate (505590). It is attached to the shopsmith tailstock chuck arbor (505603), it has a straight section that lets the toolrest lever/allen setscrew to grip it, and you have the tapered section of the chuck arbor for the faceplate.
[ATTACH]8117[/ATTACH]

You may have gotten the upgraded tool rest that allow the middle mounting position as shown here:
[ATTACH]8118[/ATTACH]

On the 5++ models this comes in handy for operations like this.

(Now if I could come up with a small cross sliding vise to use on the shopsmith system it would be great).

The not so good news was I ended up dropping my lathe tool just at the end of the day. I was going to put it away and next thing I know it nose dived trying to get in the drawer... missed but did end up getting deflected so it did not go cutting end first in the floor. Still it damaged the edge more then a diamond file can fix. I guess it is time time to get out the strip sander with sharpening attachment.

I also looked though my wood pile for a piece of plywood for the base... I have none that are large enough. If I can I'll go get some tomorrow as Sunday and on it is going to rain which means if I don't get it cut before the rain this project will come to a stop for a while.

Ed

More progress to report. I got out to the store for a piece of plywood. I figure most of you know how to do the cutting up part so we will start with a 22-1/8 square piece. One of the sides needed to be this size the other is still open as to how big I'm going to make it but with the saw set up to cut the 22-1/8 I just went ahead and did both cuts that way.

The next important thing to do is to locate the center line of the quill to the location of the piece of stock. To do that I located the stock on the table where I think I wanted it then used a lathe drive center to pin point the location on the plywood. See below:
[ATTACH]8129[/ATTACH]


Having established that point I was able to use a square to extend the line across the plywood and then mark a cut out that needs to be made. A slight digression here but it is a little trick that I picked up from my father-in-law. In this case see pictured my bayonet saw and the {screwdriver} that you need for changing blades. If you need the screwdriver for the tool why not store one with the tool. Got a tool that needs a wrench or allen wrench to operate then store one with it. In the old days I would bring the saw to the backyard or where ever and always need to make a second trip for a screwdriver... no more.
[ATTACH]8130[/ATTACH]

I would assume that you all know about the drill a starter hole to get the blade started but in case you didn't now you do.
[ATTACH]8131[/ATTACH]


I've got a more but I have to end this post early... will try to get back to it later this evening.

Ed

OK looks I'm back on tract. We were about to do a cut out, right?


Is no one going to ask me why we are cutting this piece out???? Well if you did then you I have to say good question and give you star for class participation. Why? Because this is a critical design element. This is how I was able to use a larger diameter cylinder and still have it fit. I'm going to explain in a bit more depth, if you get bored skip over it and pickup later on.

The project used pillow blocks, you may have seen them some of the earlier posts, check this picture if you are not sure what we are talking about:
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachm ... 1267749870

Pillow blocks are in the simplest terms a bearing mounted in a block. It is most often equipped so that it can easily be mounted via mounting holes to some structure.

The ones I'm using have an eccentric locking collar which keeps the shaft in position, ie it will not let the shaft slide back and forth after being locked.

These are massive over kill, 200 series with ball bearings but were on the surplus market so it was price over what was really needed. They also have some information sheets which have dimensions such as the distance from the mounting to the center of the shaft. "H" is 1.311", if we add a piece of plywood with a nominal .75" and then set this plywood on the shopsmith main table then the shaft center would be 2.061 or so above the main table. You may remember a posting I did a while back asking what the dimension was on various shopsmith units from the main table to the center of the shaft??? You can check that out at:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=5188

All of dimension provided were greater then the 2.061 so that part was looking good. However that was only part of the design.


Next I was looking for a piece of PVC pipe for the drum, as a start the 3" PVC measures 3-1/2" in diameter. If we imagined the pipe had a center line it would run 1-3/4" from that line to the outside of the pipe. Now look back at the "H" dimension.... see the problem?? We have only 1.311" of from the center line of the pillow block to the plywood but need at least he 1-3/4". Solution is to cut out the plywood where the pipe needs to go, plus a little. Just to check how close we are getting to the main table all we need do is subtract 1.311 from 1.75 to find .439". In addition we used 3-1/2" but after turning the pipe down we know it is even less now, so all is looking good.

While we are at it lets add some thoughts about dust collection.... how is that going to work??? I'll let you think on that for a few minutes.

Got something figured out? We will see a bit later what my idea is, when I return with more information and more pictures.

Ed

reible wrote:. If you need the screwdriver for the tool why not store one with the tool. Got a tool that needs a wrench or allen wrench to operate then store one with it. In the old days I would bring the saw to the backyard or where ever and always need to make a second trip for a screwdriver... no more....

I would assume that you all know about the drill a starter hole to get the blade started but in case you didn't now you do.
Ed

Hmmm, Father in Law taught you to put a screw driver in the case with your saber saw. That's a good thing!! -- but there is no need to carry a drill to make a starter hole. With and inside cut that is of reasonable size, my saber saw starts it own hole with a tilting cut.

reible wrote:...These are massive over kill, 200 series with ball bearings but were on the surplus market so it was price over what was really needed. They also have some information sheets which have dimensions such as the distance from the mounting to the center of the shaft. "H" is 1.311", if we add a piece of plywood with a nominal .75" and then set this plywood on the shopsmith main table then the shaft center would be 2.061 or so above the main table. You may remember a posting I did a while back asking what the dimension was on various shopsmith units from the main table to the center of the shaft??? You can check that out at:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=5188

All of dimension provided were greater then the 2.061 so that part was looking good. However that was only part of the design.

Next I was looking for a piece of PVC pipe for the drum, as a start the 3" PVC measures 3-1/2" in diameter. If we imagined the pipe had a center line it would run 1-3/4" from that line to the outside of the pipe. Now look back at the "H" dimension.... see the problem?? We have only 1.311" of from the center line of the pillow block to the plywood but need at least he 1-3/4". Solution is to cut out the plywood where the pipe needs to go, plus a little. Just to check how close we are getting to the main table all we need do is subtract 1.311 from 1.75 to find .439". In addition we used 3-1/2" but after turning the pipe down we know it is even less now, so all is looking good.

While we are at it lets add some thoughts about dust collection.... how is that going to work??? I'll let you think on that for a few minutes.

Ed

Man! I certainly don't understand those figures. Need a picture!

Dust collection? Where's the dust going to come from?

charlese wrote:Hmmm, Father in Law taught you to put a screw driver in the case with your saber saw. That's a good thing!! -- but there is no need to carry a drill to make a starter hole. With and inside cut that is of reasonable size, my saber saw starts it own hole with a tilting cut.

Hi,

It is a concept thing, if you have the tools you need in the box you don't have to look for them. If you have a box for your drill and you often want to have a auto center punch then get one and put it with the drill. Have another for use where you store your shopsmith drill press things.... If you find you need a pencil near the shopsmith then throw a half dozen in a drawer near by... expand the concept and see if it doesn't make your life a lot easier.

Yes most of these saws can start their own hole and if I had no way to drill a hole I would do that too. But it is easier with a drilled hole, and in fact I don't even recall the last time I saw started with out a hole... must have been 20 or 30 years ago.

I remember my first saw like this, I think it cost like $8.99, all metal, got hot, shook like I don't know what and had zero features except to make the blade go up and down. The good news was it was powered and could start its own holes. To be honest the thing was a piece of junk but I worked for the money to buy it and it was my very own tool. I added that to the drill I got for I think it was $6.99. I even got the sanding attachment, a shaft with a rubber disk and hole in the center for a screw and washer to hold the sandpaper on, sort of. I must have been 8 or 9 at the time. Use to go to the local dump and find wooden boxes from the grocery stores to make things out of.

BTW both items I got on sale out of the Montgomery Wards catalog... fun how you remember certain things.

Ed