Shopsmith Forums

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Now it is time to trim out the legs. This is one of the base caps that I mentioned earlier. I like it turned upside down for the top of the flutes.








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It really defines the flutes and the area for the corbel that I think it needs. Of course that is the costumers call and I think money is tight. I know the feeling.








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For the base at the bottom I start it upside down from what you would normally and run the base cap first. This way I can align the base cap with the flutes and get a good accurate measurement on the square stock below.


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Moldings make a mantle!

mbcabinetmaker wrote: . . .

Moldings make a mantle!

Among other things as well! That is really looking good!!!

The last thing we need to do is make a molding to go around the inside of the legs after the mantle is installed. I have allowed 1 1/2" inches for the 1 3/8" inch marble. I have done mantles where the tile or brick was really off. The marble on this job is really good but I always make a small molding to close any discrepancy.




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This molding is only 3/16" x 1/2".








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I have ran 2 edges on a 1/2" thick board with a ogee cutter in the router table and will just rip it at 3/16".








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Next I will pre cut and check the fit on all pieces. It will then be nailed on with a pin nailer and pushed back against the marble at installation.








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The mantle is ready to go. Now all we have to do is build the upper cabinet.

Ok heres the deal. The battery in my camera died in the middle of uploading some of the pictures. I always delete the photos on the camera after uploading and I have managed to loose several pictures of the start of the upper cabinet. We will just skip ahead and if you have questions just ask.



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This is the face frame for the upper cabinet. Fabrication of this is among the lost photos.








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This is the cut sheet for the top and bottom of the upper cabinet.








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Cutting of these parts were also lost. Here I have attached them to the face frame with glue and pocket screws.








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These ends were cut 7 1/2 inches to the long point of a 45 degree angle.

The other parts of this cabinet are also cut from 3/4" plywood. They have a 45 degree angle on each side. I have a right tilt saw. With the potos of the first cut also among the missing just imagine that I have just cut the piece on one long side at a 45 degree. Now I need to cut the other side. This is dangerous to do on a right tilt saw because the angled piece is running against the fence and has a tendency to actually run under the fence causing kick back and destruction of the work piece and anything in its path.








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To remedy this I have built a jig to hold the work piece. Notice that the fence on the jig runs all the way to the tablesaws table. This way it will be safe to run that 45 degree cut.








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It is attached to my unifence with screws.








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The work piece safely through the saw.








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Pieces attached to the cabinet. I will leave the actual back for later and use 1/4 inch plywood for that.

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Our next step is to make a jig to drill for the adjustable shelves. I want to give the customer the option of having either 1 shelf centered or 2 shelves with equal spacing. I will also give 32MM of adjustment up and down.








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I use a 5MM drill bit with a stop collar for this operation.








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Now to close up the back. Notice that I have used a piece of 1/4 inch plywood here and just left it square. It will be recessed into the wall and never seen again.








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View from the front.

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The next step is to attach the upper fluted pieces. First we need to build them out to match with the depth of the ones on the mantle.







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Now we need to add a board that the crown molding will attach to.








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I have screwed it from the top as it will be covered.

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Crown molding attached.








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Now I have added 2 layers of plywood to receive the edge molding and create the top of the cabinet.








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Some gentle persuasion applied.







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Plinth blocks installed with an ogee cut on top.








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This is the finished cabinet. Since we have previously covered rail and style joinery I have skipped door construction. I do however plan to do a thread soon on using concealed hinges prepared on the Shopsmith.

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Installation of this piece was simple and straight forward. We first applied some strips to the drywall using Loctite Power Grab and nails shot at 45 degree angles. These served as anchors for the legs. Brads were shot through the sides of the legs into these strips. There was plenty of support for the upper cabinet and it was screwed to the studs on the inside.








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Our project installed and ready for the homeowner to paint. I will go back after the has finished and install the glass in the doors.








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We started this thread on a note on saftey. I would like to end it on the same note. I finally got the insert back for my panel shaper and wasted no time in getting it set up.








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This is the solid rub collar that I referred to earlier. This is not a factor piece but rather one that I had made at another machine shop years ago. I quickly discovered that this cutter needed more support for the workpiece between the infeed and outfeed fences and the bottom cutter and the panel cutter and had this made. It leaves a tongue of just a couple of thousands under 1/4" to work well with the style and rail cutters that I use. I use a little candle wax on the work piece to keep from burning. Both this collar and the insert are good examples of the efforts that you sometimes have to take to work safely and efficiently.








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Now those 4" wide panels that I use for drawer fronts will be safe to shape.





Thanks for the opportunity to provide this little Demonstration.

How SWEET it is!!! Words can't describe how inspiring this project is to a newbie in woodworking. It's a miraculous transformation of wood. With the detailed step by step photos, it feels like I built the thing myself!!! Gotta take a coffee break to recoup!!

Great job Mark. Your on the homestretch now. Almost pay day for ya.