Shopsmith Forums

mikelst wrote: Wouldn't a better all purpose angle be between 42 and 36 degrees, say 39?

I'd say NO. Because the 45 degree angle has more metel behind it.

mikelst wrote:Maybe I don't get it but in this tip

http://www.woodshoptips.com/tips/052404/index.htm

the third paragraph says
"Next, pre-drill and drive a #12 x 1" roundhead wood screw (with washer) into your groove, 3/4" in from each end. Be sure the point of your screw will engage your Jointer Blade, when inserted into the slot."

Isn't that saying the screw should tighten down on the blade, not outside it?<<<<<<NO!

The way I read it I should run the screw into the blade to hold it in place. No???

The other thing I find confusing is the statement that says

45-degrees is a good all-purpose angle. However, this angle can be varied sltightly, if you work primarily with soft woods (use 42-degrees) or hardwoods (use 36-degrees).

Wouldn't a better all purpose angle be between 42 and 36 degrees, say 39?

Since the 'block is 6" long, and the screws are 3/4" in from each end, they are 4 1/2" apart. The knives are just slightly over 4 " long.

I believe the intent is to make sure the screw is 'in the groove' so as to provide both a lateral stop for the knife and an ability to squeeze down on the knife so as to secure it.

The last time I made one of these,I made a tight fit slot,and merely wedged the knives into it(all three at once). The block was over 12" in length. I used the conical disc. I was pleased with the results. The knives were the 'original' from 1963. Best sharpening ever. Previously I did them manually with a stone(s). They are very close to too short, but not yet!

I will let others address the angle question, but as Beeg has stated, the shallower angles are weaker. The angle affects the back side clearance angle of the knife to the new surface. A shallower angle may seem 'sharper' but it doesn't cut from that side.???

I just happened into luck just recently a person in Montreal (where I am)who put up a pro planer on Craigslist for $400 and I just had to get it. I ran a Cherry test board through it at the guy's house and except for 2 very minor notches it ran perfect, running equal on both side and I used a micrometer. He told me he only used it a few thimes and now I believe him. I am so happy I could just just spit!!!!!!!! I checked it fully at home and it is such a Gem, the only thing I can't find out is how old it is. The model number is
515266 (Can) Ser# 120390.
Does anyone have any thoughts on the matter.

Thanks Bob

Does the Dial indicator method compensate for a difference on table height that the Planer Blade Guagedoes not consider?

I have spent three hours adjusting planer blades, because I do not have the blade setting gauge. I thought that the time would be well spent because it is based on the distance from the surface of the planer table. The gauge, looks easier but the bar and cutter ? is independent of the table ?.

After spending three hours with the dial indicator, I am thinking that I have to go back and re - adjust to get 0.050 " of variation out of the current setting.

How close does the gauge set the Knives?

I have never even attached my dial indicators to the planer. Alignment with the tool is simple and accurate. However, doing the same with the dial indicator should be just as effective. The only problem being that you have to come up with your own set of numbers and the procedure for achieving those numbers.

Notice that Shopsmith uses dial indicators in a bench setup where they align the blades on the cutter head before it is installed into the planer. All that they can be striving for is a set of blades where all three are set at the same level.

ok guys help please - with regards to the OP original question


I raised the table some more to the point where it was hard to get the board under the metal feed roller. The planer planed the board at this point, but I assume the blades were not set properly.

is this an indication of planer knives not being set properly - my planer does this?

It sounds as though the blades are either set too deed into the cutter head or the blades have been sharpened to the point where they are too narrow. Now I would normally run out to the shop and measure a new blade but I am not there. Someone - help!!!

Maybe a whoops! How thin in the stock that you are trying to plane.

When I set out to plane a piece, I lay the item on the table and move the table up until the kick back fingers engage. Then I lower, in half turn increments, until the fingers release and I remove the stock. Then I crank the table UP one turn and feed for the first cut. My need for accuracy (final thickness) then takes over to determine cranking turns. I may get down to 1/4 turns on the crank to get the accuracy I want. YOUR CHOICE HERE.

A new set of blades are .750" wide. If they're under 11/16 they should be replaced, according to the planer manual.

It would seem to me that if getting the wood under the feed roller was difficult and only then would the wood get planed, then either there is too much tension on the feed roller or the planer blades are not set high enough.

So if you're using the Shopsmith blade setting gauge (meaning that the blades are set properly), you would need to back off the feed roller some. If that's not the case, then you need to raise the height of the blades.

Perhaps customer service could give you some advice on the best way to proceed if the feed roller needs adjusted. Too little pressure could result in the wood being kicked back and that could be dangerous.