Shopsmith Forums

Jason,

I think in the long term you will be happy with the Poly V upgrade.

Val,

You are welcome here on the Shopsmith Forum. Feel free to ask questions as we are happy to help. Do know there have been problems with Spammers so please do not take offence to those comments. Both JPG and John are very helpful with answers here.

As for the Gilmer Drive Sleeve Assembly used in early Mark 5 tools there were two versions. The early one did not have a clutch and can be identified by the picture below.

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Notice that the set screw that holds the gear in place is in the gear teeth. If you have this type of Gilmer Drive Sleeve Assembly the set screw should be very tight and you may need to replace the set screw if it is slipping. A common cup type set screw is best here.

Below is a picture of the clutched Gilmer Drive Sleeve Assembly that soon replaced the non-clutched version.

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The arrow shows the location of the set screw. This set screw should also be very tight and if needed replace it with a common cup type set screw. As has already been mentioned too much slippage in the clutch system is a problem while too little slip makes it work the same as a non-clutched Gilmer Drive Sleeve Assembly. The set screw keeps the collar attached to the sleeve itself that transmits power to the quill's spindle.

FWIW Had you started a new thread, thy post would not have been considered suspicious.

I do not have a number, but tight enough to prevent it's coming loose etc.

JPG wrote: ↑Mon Jun 06, 2022 9:49 pm FWIW Had you started a new thread, thy post would not have been considered suspicious.

I do not have a number, but tight enough to prevent it's coming loose etc.

BUT the post wasn't in General Woodworking.

beeg wrote: ↑Mon Jun 06, 2022 10:23 pm

JPG wrote: ↑Mon Jun 06, 2022 9:49 pm FWIW Had you started a new thread, thy post would not have been considered suspicious.

I do not have a number, but tight enough to prevent it's coming loose etc.

BUT the post wasn't in General Woodworking.

? ? ?

JPG wrote: ↑Tue Jun 07, 2022 12:45 pm

beeg wrote: ↑Mon Jun 06, 2022 10:23 pm

JPG wrote: ↑Mon Jun 06, 2022 9:49 pm FWIW Had you started a new thread, thy post would not have been considered suspicious.

I do not have a number, but tight enough to prevent it's coming loose etc.

BUT the post wasn't in General Woodworking.

? ? ?

That's the forum MOST spammers post in. I should know.

Ok, thanks,, I tried looking in various places, I found a spot where they gave some suggestions. But even going with the lowest torque they specified I split the screw hole at it's thinnest spot. The gear was pretty beat up so I really didn't care about it, I got it on ebay as extra parts. I'm just glad I tried it on a scrap piece. I'll keep looking I guess.

Oh, yea, I just now saw the pictures of the two types. The one I split was the older version. Like I said it was trash to begin with. I was just going to keep it as a immediate back up piece. I have two headstocks that I put in new bearings, they both have the slip type. The idea of the new set screw sounds good though. Maybe the original one got the cup portion worn out, not allowing the set screw to get a good bite. I'll try it.
Thanks it's appreciated.

I won't start a new thread because on this topic I found people talking about the drive sleeve subject. Buuuut, I did pay $20 to just talk to some engineer at shopsmith, and incase there is anyone out there who doesn't like guessing (like me), he said they use 40-60 inch lbs. on the drive sleeve set screw. OUT !

Using the Shopsmith T-Handle allen wrench, I flex the t-handle 3 times (by finger tips). Shown that years ago at an academy session.

The only allen screws that I have had come loose are in the saw blade arbors where I use flat points.

Thanks for that tip. It's quicker that way.