I made a flag case about 10 years ago. I only used 45 degree miters.
Hope I can explain this well.
First make 45 degree miters on each end of the two top pieces. Glue and clamp two ends together. Now set that on your bench upright just like it would stand when finished.
For the bottom- Now measure the distance between the two pieces you made in the first step. Cut 45 degrees on each end of the bottom piece and slide it in between.
Fit my flag perfect.
I made a couple of these some time ago as I wasn't impressed with the quality or price of the boxes available at the time. Only glue on the mitered joint on top and four screws through the base to hold the two bottom joints. Splines are decorative but structurally speaking not necessary in this case.
Troy
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I would think with this idea, all the miters can be 45 degrees. The bottom board is fastened to the sides from underneath.
EDITED: Sorry wrote this before reading cincinnati reply.
Mark V 520, Ryobi 12" mitersaw, Delta 10" tablesaw, DC 3300.
Mike
navycop wrote:I would think with this idea, all the miters can be 45 degrees. The bottom board is fastened to the sides from underneath.
Sound familiar?
#27 (P.S.)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I don't see it with a folded flag installed. If you tweaked the triangle too much, it won't conform. And even though a flag "is not an immovably firm substance" like JPG says, having a box that puts pressure on the tightly folded item will make it look "wrinkled," or leave it with gaps on the sides.
Oh, and be sure to get a fold where the stars look like a setup of bowling pins.
dusty wrote:I am glad that you have this nailed and this has been a fun excursion through a trigonometry and geometry refresher. Where were these interesting and useful exercises when I was in the classroom. The ones in my text books sure are not this much fun.
Yes, I have been having fun but I have not come up with a solution that mimics any of the numbers used in this thread.
Please, when you are finally through with this project, post the dimensions. I need to grade my work.
I am not Mark, but here is my 'work'.
Sorry about the timing, but I thought I had already posted this. I have concluded I 'previewed' it and neglected to 'submit' it.
The case is an icosoles
This was inadvertantly submitted. I leave it so the next post makes sense. This completed post is below.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Based on my experience with the cases I built I think Mark's cases are a close dimensional match to the standard size. Folded flag sizes can vary and it is better to have the flag slightly compressed than to flop around in a case that is too large.
Troy
The best equipped laundry room in the neighborhood...
dusty wrote:I am glad that you have this nailed and this has been a fun excursion through a trigonometry and geometry refresher. Where were these interesting and useful exercises when I was in the classroom. The ones in my text books sure are not this much fun.
Yes, I have been having fun but I have not come up with a solution that mimics any of the numbers used in this thread.
Please, when you are finally through with this project, post the dimensions. I need to grade my work.
I am not Mark, but here is my 'work'.
Sorry about the timing, but I thought I had already posted this. I have concluded I 'previewed' it and neglected to 'submit' it.
The case is an isosceles triangle with a base of 19.750 and equal sides of 13.375.
Consider a line perpendicular to the base passing through the apex. This line will bisect the base thus forming two identical right triangles with a side adjacent to the right angle of 19.750 / 2 = 9.875, and a side opposite to the right angle of 13.375(the hypotenuse).
The angle created by the base(half) and the side is the angle whose cosine is 9.875 / 13.375 = arccos(9.875 / 13.375) = arccos(0.7383....) = 42.41..°. Since this angle is bisected by the joint, the joint angle is 21.2° so a miter cut of 68.8° on the base and side piece form the joint.
Since this is an isoceles triangle, the opposite side/base angle is the same.
Since the sum of the interior angles must equal 180°, the apex angle is (180 - 42.4 - 42.4) = 95.2°.
The joint bisects this angle, so the joint angle is 47.6°, and the miter cut is 42.4°.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange