Shopsmith Forums

beeg wrote:Hope ya enjoy the Lacer skew class. I did a couple weeks ago. If ya have a skew, round over the short point shank. It'll ride on the tool rest much better.

thanks. I am looking forward to it. glad to hear that you enjoyed it.

I learned the trick about rounding over the edge that rides the toolrest in the turning 101 class. thanks for the reminder. I just used some evaporust to clean up some very rusty but unused SS turning tools that came with one of my shopsmiths. the skew even still had the burr along that edge. I also have a couple of Sorby oval skews that I got in this year's big Hartville sale and a Doug Thompson skew that I just got.

now I just need to get the sharpeners set up so I can finish getting ready for class.

Ivan

that is a very nice piece. I am trying to work my way up to trying a natural edge like that.

if the wood was green when you turned it, are you doing anything to control how it dries?

Thanks
This piece was quite dry. I seem to have better luck working with dry vs green wood although it is much slower for me. I decided to try the natural edge after watching these videos on an Ebay ad for a carbide tool.
Have fun- I'm trying
--pat

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4qyMc-k ... r_embedded
http://www.youtube.com/user/HarrisonSpe ... 5beYvVDeYo

Always remember the A B C's of wood turning - Anchor (place SHARP tool on tool rest) Bevel (lower the handle of the tool so that the bevel, not the cutting surface rides on the wood) Cut (SLOWLY raise handle until the tool begins to cut.)

Often with a Skew, I will run thru the above while turning the wood by hand to ensure that I am approaching the wood correctly and not heading for a catch.

I'm late to the party here but I would like to post a few comments (which have probably already been said but here goes anyways):

#1: I do strongly recommend you buy and read some books on lathe turning. I am particularly enamored with the books written by Richard Raffan with two ("Turning Bowls" and "Turning Wood") on the top of the list. I have had mine for a couple of months and have read and re-read them several times. A gold mine of good information and excellent pictures. Available on Amazon.com, EBAY, etc. $20 or so for each.

#2: Pay particular attention to the comments regarding
a> sharp tools

b> keep your tool rest close to the work. Reposition it all the time to keep it close.

c> Put the tool on the rest first! Then at the 'bevel' angle approach the wood and then lift the handle to engage the wood.

#3: If you can, take a class in wood turning!

Keep at it but do be careful!! Having as many catches as you are having means you are doing something (or probably many 'somethings') wrong.

Lathe turning is great fun so keep at it.

I'd just add one thing, that if you're wanting to turn bowls using a bowl gouge, have someone show you or watch some videos on the proper technique for hollowing a bowl, as you need to know how to roll the gouge when moving the gouge from the rim of the bowl to the center of the bowl. If you don't roll it properly, you'll catch the side of the tool and likely break something. Until then, scrapers will prove to be much more forgiving.

Thanks again for the new posts!!!!!!!
--pat

pennview wrote:I'd just add one thing, that if you're wanting to turn bowls using a bowl gouge, have someone show you or watch some videos on the proper technique for hollowing a bowl, as you need to know how to roll the gouge when moving the gouge from the rim of the bowl to the center of the bowl. If you don't roll it properly, you'll catch the side of the tool and likely break something. Until then, scrapers will prove to be much more forgiving.

I agree with the above - however, if you keep the flute pointed at 45 degree towards the direction you are moving (which should be towards the center) AND keep the bevel against the wood, you should be ok. (This is called "riding the bevel") Most easily accomplished with a "fingernail" grind on the tool. I use the Oneway Wolverine jig setup with my grinder to accomplish this in a repeable fashion. I also use the Raptor tool to maintain the proper angle (50deg on my bowl gouge)

With a scraper, be sure to set the rest so that it is maybe 1/4 inch below center and to hold the scraper with the handle up; gradually lowering the handle until you achieve the bite you desire.

One other thing - I usually set the rotation speed fairly fast but not so fast that wobble is induced. Play around and you will see that sometime wobble occurs when too slow and othertimes when too fast.

henecle wrote:Go to the URL below and contact the closest chapter to you. Each will have a mentor coordinator who can help get you linked up with a volunteer mentor. I joined AAW and then the Capital Area Woodturners chapter (Metro DC). I'm still trying to re-learn what my Dad taught me years ago. It helps to have someone demonstrate how to do it the right/safe way. Good Luck!

http://www.woodturner.org/community/cha ... apters.asp

I checked out http://www.wholesaleshuttersut.com and it gave me ideas. Although, I'm not so sure I'm making everything and my two cents is maybe do some purchasing before starting, then following work?
-JM

beeg wrote:Hope ya enjoy the Lacer skew class. I did a couple weeks ago.

the class was a lot of fun and I learned a lot. Alan is an excellent teacher.
I was the class klutz, but that is a comment on me and not at all on the instruction.

I took an assortment of skews that had come with different SSs and Alan was good enough to show me which ones were good steel and which ones had had their temper destroyed by overheating during sharpening. something that I had not really considered for used chisels.

I am now the proud owner of a Doug Thompson skew and a pair of Alan Lacer skews together with the 600 grit diamond slipstone that Alan carries. honing is a whole new skill for me but I see why it is important for turning - especially for dry wood.

did you happen to do a tool review on the Lacer skew grind after your class? if so I missed it.

I really hope to take more classes from him in a year or so.

Ivan