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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 6:25 pm
by usaf
If I read correctly, when applying the glue, you were applying to the interior of the drilled blank. If this is correct, try applying to the brass tube directly. Leave approx- 1/4" at either end and then follow what WA2CRK advised. Do this quickly as the CA will set up very fast and could cause the tube to become stuck premature in the drilled blank.( horror ) (lots of bad words will follow). By applying to the tube this will prevent glue from going over the tube to the center of the tube and cause the jam (if I read correctly). The twisting motion will spread the glue to the interior of the blank and provide stable support while turning. I hope this helps.
Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 12:13 am
by navycop
wa2crk wrote:I drill my blanks separately. The fixture that I use (see post #6) orients the blanks correctly provided that you mark one side of the whole blank with a marker. The I drill the hole with the marked side facing me and everything lines up OK on the mandrel. By the way also mark the original blank with an arrow to indicate "up".
Bill V
You said post #6. Do you mean post #22?
Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 8:56 am
by wa2crk
Just a word of caution. I have recently turned some of the nlaid pen kits and found tht the CA glue seems to grab a lot quicker whenCA glue comes in contact with previously applied CA glue. The inlaid kits uses CA thin glue for the puzzle pieces which migrates to the inside of the blank and when the tube is inserted into the blank with more glue the blank grabs prematurely. So if you move slowly I would recommend two part epoxy with an open time of at least 5 minutes. The inlaid kits sure do make a nice pen but are pricey.
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Bill V
Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 3:27 pm
by wa2crk
navycop;
You're right post 22 will do !!
Bill V
Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 10:33 pm
by hoagie
I started out using 2-part epoxy. Had good success with it. Then, on the advice of one of the guys at the local Rockler, I switched to thick CA. Never went back to the epoxy.
I spread a few beads down the length of the roughed up tube and then insert with a twisting motion. I usually do 8-10 pen blanks right before I call it quits for the day. This way these blanks are all ready for turning the next time I get to the shop.
Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 11:48 pm
by JPG
hoagie wrote:I started out using 2-part epoxy. Had good success with it. Then, on the advice of one of the guys at the local Rockler, I switched to thick CA. Never went back to the epoxy.
I spread a few beads down the length of the roughed up tube and then insert with a twisting motion. I usually do 8-10 pen blanks right before I call it quits for the day. This way these blanks are all ready for turning the next time I get to the shop.
Store the CA in a refrigerator. In addition to increasing shelf life, it slows down the setting time(it sets quicker with heat).
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 1:24 am
by navycop
JPG40504 wrote:Store the CA in a refrigerator. In addition to increasing shelf life, it slows down the setting time(it sets quicker with heat).
I cut and drilled my first pen blank today. Is CA better than super glue? Also are the pen tubes for the same kind of pen the same? I know there are different pen kits (ie slimline, cigar, bullet). But are the tubes used for these kits the same. I hope I phrased that right?
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 2:15 am
by JPG
navycop wrote:I cut and drilled my first pen blank today. Is CA better than super glue? Also are the pen tubes for the same kind of pen the same? I know there are different pen kits (ie slimline, cigar, bullet). But are the tubes used for these kits the same. I hope I phrased that right?
My knowledge of storing CA glue far exceeds my pen turning knowledge(doesn't take much!).

Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 6:53 am
by MikeG
Super glue is thin CA glue, but for gluing tubes into blanks you want thick CA glue. The length of the tubes will vary with the manufacturer of the kit. Here is a listing of bushings and tubes for different kits:
http://content.penturners.org/articles/2009/bushingsandtubes.pdf
Check out the rest of the site above for more pen turning questions as it is a wealth of information. I hope this helps.
Used Titebond III
Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 10:58 pm
by allsas
I used Titebond III. The tubes stayed in. It was easy cleanup. CHEAP.
But three pens was a very small test with an unusual wood, Calfornia Live Oak, which had a characteristic tendency to chip. See details
in.
http://cid-1ddbf9934fb1a908.office.live ... sories.exe