Bandsaw Blade Tracking Adjustments Etc.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Aug 15, 2012 1:58 pm

[quote="keakap"]Well, not quite "all".
What it doesn't say is that the older manual doesn't say the same thing-- it doesn't even use the "Caution" graphic]

Consider the fact that if one does NOT release the tension, one does not NEED the little window to see what the tension is set to.

Then the only time it becomes relevant(setting the tension after a blade change) when the cover is off so the little window is not needed!

keakap · Post by **keakap** » Wed Aug 15, 2012 2:51 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Consider the fact that if one does NOT release the tension, one does not NEED the little window to see what the tension is set to.

Then the only time it becomes relevant(setting the tension after a blade change) when the cover is off so the little window is not needed!

Aha! The plop thickens again!
Since the little window is a modern addition, and apparently not needed as you point out, could one presume that the *New* manual was changed for the primary porpoise (yes this hole thing seems fishy) of generating interest in this New Feature by way of mentioning the lessening of tensions; all for the end goal of justifying some engineer's time and work-product in the design and implementation of said 'little window'?
Do I understand your position correctly, or is this just a case of nefarious nitpicking?
;-)

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Aug 15, 2012 2:53 pm

Huh? Say What?

keakap · Post by **keakap** » Wed Aug 15, 2012 3:50 pm

dusty wrote:Huh? Say What?

little window?
or 'through the looking glass'...

But not now, I'm late; I'm late...

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Aug 15, 2012 4:52 pm

[quote="keakap"]Aha! The plop thickens again!
Since the little window is a modern addition, and apparently not needed as you point out, could one presume that the *New* manual was changed for the primary porpoise (yes this hole thing seems fishy) of generating interest in this New Feature by way of mentioning the lessening of tensions]
YES! On both counts. You nailed the 'subtle' one!

Do not worry Dusty, 'WE' unnrerstan(me n the man from HI[and the rabbit hole]!):D

caleb · Post by **caleb** » Tue Feb 26, 2013 2:12 pm

Is this a upgrade you can buy from shopsmith?

I am having so many issues with my bandsaw atm, and being a newbie it is very dis heartening.

what benefits have you seen to using the dual bearings over the single?

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Feb 26, 2013 3:07 pm

caleb wrote:Is this a upgrade you can buy from shopsmith?

I am having so many issues with my bandsaw atm, and being a newbie it is very dis heartening.

what benefits have you seen to using the dual bearings over the single?

The dual bearings work and to some extent they reduce the noise level but they are NOT a cure all. I have two bandsaws; one with dual bearings and one with the standard bear configuration.

I honestly cannot tell you that one is better than the other. I do my resawing and heavy straight line cutting on one machine and I do all of the lighter bandsaw work on the other. I cannot tell you, without going out to look, which is which.

The bandsaw must be properly aligned and tensioned to work right. If you are having problems, please be more specific as to what problems and I'll bet we can have you luvin your bandsaw.

As long as you are not trying to do mill work that is beyond its capabilities, it is a sweet machine.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Feb 26, 2013 4:25 pm

The 'dual bearing' for the upper and lower blade guides are not a SS 'upgrade.

Rather it is an 'improvement' generated by interested individuals as an alternative to the original and were influenced by Carter guides somewhat. They are a logical extension of the rear guide bearing upgrade from SS that replaces the single bearing with two narrower ones that provide a groove for the back of the blade to settle into.

They were also intended to reduce squealing caused by the blade skewing on the flat single bearing face.

IMHO they are 'better' than the oem single bearing in that they reduce the task of the guides. They help keep the back of the blade 'inline' so the guides mainly prevent twisting of the tooth edge.

They are not a panacea and certainly not a cure for improper alignment.

I cannot over emphasize the importance of the blade traveling in a straight line tangent to both wheels with no influence by the guides. The guides merely help maintain that path as side pressures to the blade are caused by the cutting process.

caleb · Post by **caleb** » Fri Mar 15, 2013 12:03 am

To Respond the only time i had this twisting issue was with the 5/8 blade from ss, I haven't tried any other blade.
I have gone through the manual many times to check that everything is aligned and had no luck.

after looking through this thread I tried the dual bearing approach. because I was having an issue with my blade twisting at almost a 25 Degree angle, the only way I was able to fix this issue was by adding the dual bearing to the lower blade guide. now my 5/8 blade cuts true.

I tried everything I could think of. and all the help I got from ss customer services was to by a blade that cuts straight, I got some more help form Doug Reid, which was great but alas it didn't help me with my issue.

There was one other way to get the blade to straighten; it was to move the blade forward on the upper wheel. or by turning the bandsaw backwards.

If anyone can offer better suggestions please let me know.

Caleb

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Mar 15, 2013 12:44 am

[quote="caleb"]To Respond the only time i had this twisting issue was with the 5/8 blade from ss, I haven't tried any other blade.
I have gone through the manual many times to check that everything is aligned and had no luck.

after looking through this thread I tried the dual bearing approach. because I was having an issue with my blade twisting at almost a 25 Degree angle, the only way I was able to fix this issue was by adding the dual bearing to the lower blade guide. now my 5/8 blade cuts true.

I tried everything I could think of. and all the help I got from ss customer services was to by a blade that cuts straight, I got some more help form Doug Reid, which was great but alas it didn't help me with my issue.

There was one other way to get the blade to straighten]
Check the upper wheel cant. Lay a straight edge against the upper wheel and observe the amount of 'clearance' between the straight edge and the lower wheel. It should be about 1/4". The back edge of all blades should 'ride' on the upper wheel about 1/4" from the back rim(1/8" from the back edge of the tire?)

'Something' is causing the lower guide bearing to exert sufficient force to cause it to skew on the single lower guide bearing surface.(IIUC)

A 25 degree twist seems unusually extreme to me. Are you tensioning the blade correctly?

Shopsmith Forums

Bandsaw Blade Tracking Adjustments Etc.

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Blade Twist