Shopsmith Forums

mbcabinetmaker wrote:Tom we are actually going to make a simple raised panel on the Shopsmith for this project. But first I want to try to clear up some confusion I seem to have created in my shop improvement thread about my door assemble clamps.



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The goal is to create a ridgid right angle to assemble doors so that they come out of the clamps square. I started by drilling and screwing the front blocks to the clamps and to the boards. That way they cannot move forward or backwards.




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The rear blocks just flote in a channel that I created. That way I can slide them out the back side if I need to position the block in front of the clamp slider.







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This piece is two sided and replaceable since it will catch a lot of glue.







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This piece is clamped to the bench to help hold the left clamp board firmly.
The right clamp board is slid along the bench and clamped into position depending upon the door length.







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This is now set up to assemble our doors. There is however one more piece of the puzzle. We will get to that later.


Looking back over this post I guess I have actually produced a left angle since it is to my left.

mbcabinetmaker wrote:Yes indeed I could have used more power on this set up. I believe this is the only time I have ever tripped a breaker with my 520. After that I decided to make the cut in 3 passes.
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I have set the table angle at 40 degrees for this cut.
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This is about where I pop the breaker. After that I just lowered the blade (raised the table) and made the cut in 3 passed. Worked just fine.

BigSky wrote:In the last picture this post, what is the piece that appears to be 3or4 length of 1/2" plywood held together by cross braces. Is this just a fence to clamp too.

bffulgham wrote:Not to be picky, but to make sure I'm on the same page with you. RE: "table angle at 40 degrees"?

10 deg. maybe?

Also a comment/question about tripping the breaker......
It's obvious you have made a lot more cabinets, panels, etc. than I have.... I've never worked with cypress..... It looks like you were using a combination blade to make the cuts. Could it be that the chips were not clearing quickly enough to prevent some binding? I've had similar issues using my favorite Freud 50 tooth combo blade that is a full .126" kerf (If I had it to do over, I would have purchased the thin kerf version).

Thanks for posting the tutorials that you do. I appreciate you taking the time to do them!

Bud

mbcabinetmaker wrote: It will need replacing often because of glue build up so I designed it double sided so that I can just flip it around a use both sides.

beeg wrote:Couldn't ya just wax or shellac it to keep the glue buildup down?

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This is the test panel. It looks pretty good. I will need to make a dado cut on the back side to create a 1/4 inch tongue for the rails and stiles. The only problem with that is the 10 degree angle on the front is going to create a wedge effect. The 1/4 inch thickness should be at least 1/8" beyond where the panel contacts the rails and stiles. This application that is 5/8" so I will shoot for a 14" thickness at 3/4" in from the edges. The dado cut should be at least 1 inch wide also so that the panel can move freely. That way it will have a nice loose fit in case of expansion.

Ed in Tampa wrote:I have a question, I realize this is a test panel but I see a lot of grain tear out on the end grain end of the raised portion. How did you handle this on the actual panel?