Shopsmith Forums

I don't have room for a dedicated bench/assembly table, so I use a hollow core door on top of sawhorses as an assembly table/pseudo bench. When I get ready to do assembly on something where having an absolute right angle is critical, I'll grab a couple of scrap boards that have a straight edge and screw them to the top and edge of the door using my framing square as a setup. I screw the short leg in place first using a couple of #8 x 1 1/2 screws, align the long edge using my framing square, clamp it in place, and then use at least 2 more screws to attach to the edge of the door. You can get the general idea by this first pic:
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I'll usually use a couple of clamps to clamp the first to boards to their respective jig pieces like so:
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To finish hold everything together, I'll use a couple of my bar clamps to hold everything in place until the glue sets up:
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I was not gluing up picture frames for what I was working on today. Just needed to get really square butt joints done, but the same concept applies.

I've also enjoyed this thread. Thanks, Dusty for starting it and thanks to all who participated!

Wish I could go back to Santa's shop and finish my bookcase, but it's too blasted cold

Sorta late response, but amazon has them
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_4_4?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=lion+miter+trimmer&sprefix=lion


P.S. I cannot help but wonder if 'Big Sky' was testing the miter pro or the angle gauge.

I guess this is as good as any place to post this. Today I used my Hoffman key set up on an entertainment center that I am building.


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This was the basic machine when I bought it about 15 years ago. They now have several models that are pneumatic and a lot more automated. I still like my small simple machine and you can see that I have adapted it to fit on the 520.





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The technique is quite simple. Feed one miter in to the machine from the right, pull the lever that raises a small router and then feed the other in from the left and repeat the process.





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I am working with 3/8" thick stock so it is cutting all the way through. Actually worked out great for this demonstration.





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I will apply a little glue to the end grain of the boards before driving the key home.





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A little out of focus but this is the end that goes in first. This is a plastic key but they also make them in different wood and different sizes.

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I will go back and wipe a little wood filler on and then sand with the orbital sander. Only the front 3/8" of this piece will show when all is finished so the keys will be hidden.




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I think they work good to help keep the miters tight for the long haul and they make quick work of alignment in the shop.

foxtrapper wrote:I hope it's an illusion in the picture, but the tool on Lee Valley's page looks like it's got a blade bevel away from the table. That would make it work about as well as a pair of scissors sharpened on the inside of the blades.

A very late response, but I believe the sliding blade holder holds two blades, and the cutting is done by pulling the handle down in the pix and that the 'flat' side of the blade is facing the workpiece in the pix.

Now I do also believe the blade on the left has the bevel flush with the base, and the blade itself is under cut in the mounting screw area.

This allows cutting from either end(necessary with shaped front frames).