Shopsmith Forums

ugly_guitar_guy wrote:Lights in the garage only. It's a detached garage so the power is on a separate breaker from the rest of the apartments (although I don't know exactly where the breaker is. Hopefully my neighbor's power isn't flickering every time I power the thing on!).

Yeah, I was surprised to find they had what I needed. It's where I get all my components for building guitar pedals. They've saved my butt many time so that I didn't have to wait for shipping! (If anyone is in Orange County, CA, it's JK Electronics in Westminster).

When the breaker does finally trip you will likely want to be able to reset it. Knowing where it is at will then become priority. Hopefully it is close be and accessible. That circuit might also power your refrigerator or more importantly - your TV.

Seriously, it would be very good to know where the breaker is and what size it is. Since the lights flicker when you power it on - something is either wrong or inadequately sized for the load..

With a little hunting I found the box. It's attached to the laundry room with a separate breaker for the the washers and the garages. Wonder if I can upgrade it to a 20A fuse or if the wiring will handle it. Neighbors aren't affected, fortunately.

ugly_guitar_guy wrote:Wonder if I can upgrade it to a 20A fuse or if the wiring will handle it.

What do you have? Circuit breakers or fuses? What gauge is the wire size? Are there any open spaces for a new circuit? 20amp wood require 12/2 wG.

ugly_guitar_guy wrote:With a little hunting I found the box. It's attached to the laundry room with a separate breaker for the the washers and the garages. Wonder if I can upgrade it to a 20A fuse or if the wiring will handle it. Neighbors aren't affected, fortunately.

First some terminology.

Fuses are different from breakers.

Both fuses and breakers are selected to protect the wiring and are sized according to the size wire being 'protected'.

One reason the more expensive breakers are preferred is with the fuses, a lot of 'upgrading':rolleyes: was being done by increasing fuse size(or using pennies:eek:).

Also if that box is being fed by a feeder from a 'main' panel, the feed wiring ampacity(ampre capacity) needs to be considered.



Short answer - probably not. However increasing the wire size to the garage MIGHT help.

A better 'solution' is to run a 20A branch from the main panel to the garage.

Do you really have fuses?

Finally are you renting?

JPG40504 wrote:First some terminology.

Fuses are different from breakers.

Both fuses and breakers are selected to protect the wiring and are sized according to the size wire being 'protected'.

One reason the more expensive breakers are preferred is with the fuses, a lot of 'upgrading':rolleyes: was being done by increasing fuse size(or using pennies:eek:).

Also if that box is being fed by a feeder from a 'main' panel, the feed wiring ampacity(ampre capacity) needs to be considered.



Short answer - probably not. However increasing the wire size to the garage MIGHT help.

A better 'solution' is to run a 20A branch from the main panel to the garage.

Do you really have fuses?

Finally are you renting?

My bad, I didn't mean fuses, I did mean breakers (I do know the difference). My guess is the wiring is sub-par in the building and to the garage. It's a fairly old apt building and has it's fair share of plumbing problems and trips the breaker if you use a hair dryer and vacuum in the same room. That kind of stuff.

We do rent, but the land lord let's us treat it like it's a house and do modifications if needed, as long as it's done legally and by a licensed professional, so I'll look into what I can realistically get done.

I just find it odd that it hasn't tripped the breaker yet with how much power it seems to need to start the motor. It always seems to squeeze by.

ugly_guitar_guy wrote:My bad, I didn't mean fuses, I did mean breakers (I do know the difference). My guess is the wiring is sub-par in the building and to the garage. It's a fairly old apt building and has it's fair share of plumbing problems and trips the breaker if you use a hair dryer and vacuum in the same room. That kind of stuff.

We do rent, but the land lord let's us treat it like it's a house and do modifications if needed, as long as it's done legally and by a licensed professional, so I'll look into what I can realistically get done.

I just find it odd that it hasn't tripped the breaker yet with how much power it seems to need to start the motor. It always seems to squeeze by.

The current is being 'limited' by the long wire run. That is hard on the motor!:eek: I suggest you ALWAYS return the speed setting to slow before turning off so the startup torque(and current draw) is reduced. At least until yer low garage power is corrected.

P.S. Fuse boxes are like iceboxes. I know they are refrigerators!

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Unless there is, as Beeg said, a bad connection, that should get er done.

Measuring transient loads(motor startup) will be difficult without time lapse metering.

#6 would have been better, but that is a done deal.

Are you seeing the fluorescents dimming? Or are they 'flickering'? What is the temperature in the shop, and are they the older ballast type?

What does an incandescent lamp do?


Depending upon your answers, I think you are overly concerned.

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