Shopsmith Forums

I would be using graphite(sparingly) on the fly weight pivots and the actuating 'ring' shaft bore. There are probably pivot surfaces between the flyweights and the 'ring'. The flyweights pull the ring away from the contacts (opening them) and when slowed down, they again press the ring against the contacts again making them.

If you were not hearing a decisive click upon stopping, I would concentrate on the fly weights and ring. Do look for contact deflection in the 'made' position. In addition to 'cleaning', make sure there is positive pressure when made which will be indicated by contact movement or yoke deflection. I believe the yoke should be either off the ring or barely touching when the motor is 'running'. I do not see from your pix, but the yoke should have two arms, and that plastic(?) piece should be on both ends.

Yes I think those are the points, but not really enough field of view to tell for sure(need to verify what is connected to what).

I doubt the chips caused any damage.

The bearings are pressed on. If they feel good continue to use them.

By all means remove any debris or foreign objects.

Silicone grease if used instead of graphite should be done very sparingly!

Non conductivity is not an issue unless it migrates to the live parts.

I've managed to push the switch in and lubricate each pivot point with a small paintbrush dipped in silicon lube. This stuff dries completely so should be good. That said, once I did it, he switch works a touch more smoothly. So, I'll clean out the chips, put her back together...and wait to run it. I now have to fix the countershaft so I can hook up the main motor pulley. Then I'll run this thing?
Ps, it's actually going to be the shopsmith which will help me grind down a new shaft. Whoda thought.

Is that a flat leather belt going from the countershaft to the gear box?

JPG40504 wrote:Is that a flat leather belt going from the countershaft to the gear box?

I can tell that it is... Most of them were. Mine is, even though on mine it is all inside of a pedestal where you don't generally see it. Well, actually mine is a rubber flat belt but it probably started life with a leather belt.


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Yup. Flat leather belt. It's joined together with alligator clips with a pin that joins both sides of the teeth. Pull the pin and the teeth can unmesh. I will probably replace with a rubber serpentine belt. But, I want the machine to slip in certain situations so I don't want to lose that with the rubber belt. I've read some posts elsewhere about it.

I posted the countershaft which I made yesterday. Attached and fired up the motor....and, well, Ok, it runs great! I hear the switch every time. So, thanks Jpg, Robinson and everyone who chimed in.

Awesome job everyone another example of how great this place is!

Guys, it seems to work fine for the last few weeks. Same problem but very intermittent. So, my question is now to repeat the process but now try graphite? JPG? You suggested graphite before so can I give it a more aggressive coating with that? Thought I had this licked but it's no surprise. The shaft showed signs of rubbing so I'm assuming that neglect is the culprit.

holsgo wrote:Guys, it seems to work fine for the last few weeks. Same problem but very intermittent. So, my question is now to repeat the process but now try graphite? JPG? You suggested graphite before so can I give it a more aggressive coating with that? Thought I had this licked but it's no surprise. The shaft showed signs of rubbing so I'm assuming that neglect is the culprit.

I m not sure at this point. I would look for signs of wear that may have burrs or something that can 'catch'. Silicone spray? Paraffin? JPW? Not sure merely lubricating it will be a long term 'fix'.

Do not overlook the moving parts(flyweights, springs). Look for wear in the brackets under the loops on the ends of the springs.

After testing last night it seems to stick after the machine runs for greater than 45 seconds or so. Short run times as I cut, fit etc are fine. longer run times are the culprit. So I can only assume that maybe I need to get in there with a can of graphite or silicone with the red tube on the nozzle and really get at it further back where the doughnut is residing for those longer periods.