Shopsmith Forums

A hand plane is absolutely the correct tool for a natural material.

Please don't destroy your plane irons (or jointer knives for that matter) on plywood though. DAMHIKT!:eek:

A two-part procedure: How about hogging off most of the waste with a circular saw or plane, then touching up the edge to a perfect 45 degrees using the conical disk with the table tilted ca. 42 degrees away from the disk? Should be a safe procedure, since gravity is helping keep the board on the table.

Am I way off base?

Gary

greitz wrote:A two-part procedure: How about hogging off most of the waste with a circular saw or plane, then touching up the edge to a perfect 45 degrees using the conical disk with the table tilted ca. 42 degrees away from the disk? Should be a safe procedure, since gravity is helping keep the board on the table.

Am I way off base?

Gary

Almost.

The 'original' issue was the inadequate width of the smaller table. The conical disk sander would share that 'problem' but being off the edge of the table would increase the potential width capacity. Question is, will the table go 'low enough'?.

A reminder this involves a M5 / MV 500 table.

Lets get beyond "can you" and get to the how. Let's say the other methods are not within reach for whatever reason. I don't know how wide the table of a 500 is but with the rip fence to the right of the blade and the table dropped to a forty five degree setting at the far right end of the bed, I'd attach an auxiliary fence to the rip fence of at least 6" in Heighth. 3/4 plywood or MDF work great. Slide the rip fence to the left. Lower the table onto the blade clipping the left edge of the "Auxiliary" wood fence. When you cut the 1x10 you should be able to achieve a sharp arris on your 1x10. if its quality hardwood, sharp enough to cut your finger on. You'll probably loose a whisker off the width to actually achieve the sharp arris. Stabilizing the 6' long piece as it approaches the blade and again as the piece exits the splitter is the second part of this problem. Even on a stand-alone table saw cutting any item on it's narrow edge presents a challenge, amplified by the nature of it's length. Now with that said, Make the auxillary fence long enough to extend ahead of and also past the table by a couple of feet. To the bottom of the auxilliary fence attach a base at least a couple inches wide. The 1X10 will then be cradled and have considerable support along both it's length and height. That would be my "I going to do this with my Shopsmith no matter what" solution.

Well I have learned my new word for the day!;)

I REALLY don't think you want a sharp edge, to much chance of cutting off your reference edge. Just like a jointer operation you would need to put something to correct this problem, ie change the height of the out feed. Way to much effort.

If you don't believe it try it, I know what will happen somewhere about half way through.

Ed

tenbears wrote:Lets get beyond "can you" and get to the how. Let's say the other methods are not within reach for whatever reason. I don't know how wide the table of a 500 is but with the rip fence to the right of the blade and the table dropped to a forty five degree setting at the far right end of the bed, I'd attach an auxiliary fence to the rip fence of at least 6" in Heighth. 3/4 plywood or MDF work great. Slide the rip fence to the left. Lower the table onto the blade clipping the left edge of the "Auxiliary" wood fence. When you cut the 1x10 you should be able to achieve a sharp arris on your 1x10. if its quality hardwood, sharp enough to cut your finger on. You'll probably loose a whisker off the width to actually achieve the sharp arris. Stabilizing the 6' long piece as it approaches the blade and again as the piece exits the splitter is the second part of this problem. Even on a stand-alone table saw cutting any item on it's narrow edge presents a challenge, amplified by the nature of it's length. Now with that said, Make the auxillary fence long enough to extend ahead of and also past the table by a couple of feet. To the bottom of the auxilliary fence attach a base at least a couple inches wide. The 1X10 will then be cradled and have considerable support along both it's length and height. That would be my "I going to do this with my Shopsmith no matter what" solution.

tenbears wrote:Make the auxillary fence long enough to extend ahead of and also past the table by a couple of feet. To the bottom of the auxilliary fence attach a base at least a couple inches wide. The 1X10 will then be cradled and have considerable support along both it's length and height. .

Excellent refinement to the original "tall fence" idea. Thanks, Tenbears.

Hey Flipper, did you "get 'er done"? John McCrossen

johnmccrossen wrote:Hey Flipper, did you "get 'er done"? John McCrossen

He has not spoke up since 'last month'!;)

If we go completly down the page, the is the word "TOP" in the right corner, so it was already there or someone added it ... it is the first time that I go down completely. Because at the bottom of each page, there is that section where you can post, so we tend not to go all the way down ...
So "TOP" is the keyword of the day for me.

Sorry I wrote in the wrong thread ....