Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 7:03 am
Ed in Tampa wrote:Dusty
I'm not against trying to get as accurate as possible. However I use a dial gauge to set my main table not because I believe I need it to be within .001-.002. But I using the dial gauge easier than using a more subjective way like moving the table until a rod pinned in my mitre gauge just touches the saw blade.
I don't own a wixey as such but I do have a Sears electronic torpedeo level. However most often I use an try angle to set the tilt on my saw.
Here is what I believe. You can set the main table on a SS to .000" accuracy and the first time you use the main table to move the shopsmith or even if you don't push on the table but just move your shopsmith variations in the floor and such will change that reading a couple of thousands.
You can set your tilt with a wixey or whatever to .000" accuracy and a slight jarring of the table will change it a couple of thousands.
Now unless you hand picked, hand tuned your blades I imagine there is more .005" difference in runout between them. Add to this the differences in runout between your various arbors and again you find yourself off your original .000" setup.
I'm not picking on SS because this happens on any table saw.
Now throw the wood on the table and make the cut. Unless your fence was .000" tolerance to cut dimension you added another error factor. Also any and all variations in the wood either where the wood meets the blade or where the wood presses against the fence or miter gauge you have more variation.
Then figure in your own ability to hold the wood perfectly against the fence or miter guage and you have more variations. Also consider how well you align the wood up with the blade and your cut mark. Consider the cut mark itself it's width will throw you out of .000" accuracy if everything else was perfect.
What I'm saying is a perfect machine aligned to .000" accuracy, cut with a perfect blade with no runout, will still have a degree of inaccuracy just because of the nature of wood working.
The true craftsman seeing perhaps only the tiniest sliver of light in the joint knows exactly how to finesse it quickly to remove that slight flaw. That is a skill many of us try to compensate for by obessing over how well our machine is built/adjusted.
I submit to you that if it were possible to have a perfect machine with a perfect blade cutting perfect wood there is still a lot of room for craftsmanship.
A craftsman still needs the finesse that many of us have not developed as fully as others.
The difference between what I would call a nicely done piece and a piece done by the craftsman is how well each finessed each joint, each board, each step of finish and etc.
And I submit the craftsman can do such work using a hand saw, $50 bench top or $4000 high end .000" accurate saw.
I have watched craftsman hand rip a board that I don't think I could duplicate the accuracy on my SS. But more importantly I saw him fit (finesse) the board into the project leaving absolutely no gap in the seam.
That is what I try to reproduce often mistakenly by demanding my tools to be .000" accurate instead of developing the patience and skill to just do it.
I spent nearly a half hour writing a rebuttal and then decided that it was like beating my head on the wall. I give up. My Shopsmith equipment all does what I bought it for and that is all that is important.
The wind is blowing so I don't want to open up the shop doors. Given this inconvenience, I decided to check run out and wobble. The drive shaft is as close to perfect as I would expect on a twenty five year old machine. I have less than .003" run out on the quill shaft fully extended. My best (flatest) saw blade measures .004" of wobble. I checked four different saw blade/arbor combinations. The worst was really bad by comparison. It has a wobble of nearly .009".
My test for run out.
