Shopsmith Forums

Managed to get my 2 x 4's rough cut to length and finish rip cut. First time cutting softwood. Like Heath said when he cut softwood for the first time, it was like 'cutting through warm butter'.
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The plan called of 1-1/2" wide and 2" wide boards but since the 2x4 is only 3-1/2", I split the different to account for the kerf and ripped the boards 1-7/16" wide and 1-15/16" wide. That will work fine.

Next step.....final length cuts, and cut all the lap joints.

Check out the animation I posted showing the pegboard rack in operation. Big thanks to tom_k/mo for lighting up the sketchup fire in my belly!! Been having a ball working with it.

mickyd wrote:Managed to get my 2 x 4's rough cut to length and finish rip cut. First time cutting softwood. Like Heath said when he cut softwood for the first time, it was like 'cutting through warm butter'.
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The plan called of 1-1/2" wide and 2" wide boards but since the 2x4 is only 3-1/2", I split the different to account for the kerf and ripped the boards 1-7/16" wide and 1-15/16" wide. That will work fine.

Next step.....final length cuts, and cut all the lap joints.

Check out the animation I posted showing the pegboard rack in operation. Big thanks to tom_k/mo for lighting up the sketchup fire in my belly!! Been having a ball working with it.

Good Start! Do NOT lose track of which side is narrower(1 7/16) in the subsequent process(es)! It is the face opposite the sawn face ya need to keep track of(the saw tracks are obvious on the sawn face).

JPG40504 wrote:Good Start! Do NOT lose track of which side is narrower(1 7/16) in the subsequent process(es)! It is the face opposite the sawn face ya need to keep track of(the saw tracks are obvious on the sawn face).

Agree. With all the stock that is now 1-7/16" x 1-1/2" (vs. spec of 1-1/2 square) , I thought of getting some more reps on on my Pro-Planer and making them all 1-7/16" square. They are used for the stiles and rails on the doors. That way, I don't have to keep track of orientation.

JPG40504 wrote:Ya gonna rip them with a laser??? I do not see kerf waste. If yer thinking bandsaw, go slow and watch(closely) for blade 'drift'.

BTW yer gonna buy 2-2x4-8' at 5 1/3 bf each = 10 2/3 bf @ 0.56 = $5.97 You may/should consider a more gooder grade of 2x4!

Did you notice how clean those 2 by's are? I must have sorted through 30 or 40 to get those 2. Only a few small knots and relatively straight.

Not sure what you're making but sounds interesting.. My wife & I are pondering some framing of one thing or another -- a chicken coop on the small side or a 10x20 shed on the large end (with attached coop).. I got quotes from a large lumber yard in Compton today (they supply Home Depot with some of their lumber) and they're selling stud&btr grade 2x4's for $0.28/LF (lineal foot) -- comes out to about $0.75 less per 8' board.. That is a nice savings when I'm buying >100 of them..

osx-addict wrote:Not sure what you're making but sounds interesting.. .....

It going to be a two door, 4 surface, pegboard storage rack for hanging 'stuff' (tools, sawblades, screw drivers etc.). Will be mounting it on the side of my mobile workbench.

How many chickens do you have Rick? They layers?

Pretty cool sketch-up use. Looks like a good project! Best Wishes!

Neat project. Seems like it would work as a stand alone on the bench top as well. Hmmm, might be too top heavy for that.

What do you plan to use for the hinges (swivel points)?

mickyd wrote:Agree. With all the stock that is now 1-7/16" x 1-1/2" (vs. spec of 1-1/2 square) , I thought of getting some more reps on on my Pro-Planer and making them all 1-7/16" square. They are used for the stiles and rails on the doors. That way, I don't have to keep track of orientation.

Good decision! Alter the 'plans' accordingly!!!!:D

mickyd wrote:Like Heath said when he cut softwood for the first time, it was like 'cutting through warm butter'.

Actually, I was cutting African Mahogany with my new Freud Avanti thin kerf blade.