Shopsmith Forums

jsburger wrote: Sat Mar 26, 2022 6:42 pm Some time it takes more than once.

Less is more. More is morer. Which is way more gooder.

He clearly moved the lock lever to the locked position. That is why I said it needs to be adjusted. In the video his SPT hub moves back and fourth about 1/4". When mine is locked you can feel and barely see some movement.

jsburger wrote: Sat Mar 26, 2022 7:39 pm He clearly moved the lock lever to the locked position. That is why I said it needs to be adjusted. In the video his SPT hub moves back and fourth about 1/4". When mine is locked you can feel and barely see some movement.

I agree. You see the whole mount assembly moving when he wiggles it. And you see that he is using fairly light pressure (at least compared to how mine is set up) to rotate the lock. I'm also not sure about Tom's statement later in the video that there is movement between the Headrest and Tie-bar. I don't think there should be, once it is locked. I think that gap closes as far as it is going to. I'm not sure about this, I've struggled in the past with getting the Headrest right.

I don't have a SS Jigsaw. But I think the Bandsaw should be more stable. So I understand that people might put pressure on the coupler to stabilize it. The first time I used the eccentric mounts (small eccentricity version) I was shocked at how much less stable the tool was compared to the straight tubes I was accustomed to. Might not be ideal to use the coupler like this, but it sure isn't ideal to have a saw moving around while you're working either.

ETA: But in principle I agree with Tom. Ideally I would stabilize the SPT through other means and leave a bit of play in the coupler.

- David

My Growth Rings with Scott Markwood

SHOP NOTES: Admittedly, there's not much to this week's video, but this stupid little task made me wonder how you approach things like this. It also gave me a chance to use my new Milescraft GrabberPRO again. In case you missed it, I did a bit of a caparison between it, the Grr-Ripper and another similar tool from the company Delmar Tools. Here's that video: https://youtu.be/Fyo2TSVwhrg

Please consider joining the 100+ other channel members in supporting the channel and get access to perks: https://www.youtube.com/c/MyGrowthRings

Here's an idea: If you aren't ready or able to join the channel, you can always support the channel by watching, clicking the thumbs-up, commenting, sharing, and by clicking through the provided links whenever you are shopping on Amazon or eBay. You don't even need to purchase the items these links lead to, but by going through these links they'll reward us with a small "finders fee". Thanks in advance for the support!

Here are links to a few of the products I used or discussed in this video:
The Milescraft GrabberPRO: (Basic model shown in this video) https://amzn.to/3dUQScd
My favorite 9" long T-handle "Shopsmith Toolbox" 5/32" Hex Wrench: https://amzn.to/3sm3NcJ

Here's a promotional video of the Milescraft GrabberPRO: https://youtu.be/Uzozi0sjixI

Visit http://www.MyGrowthRings.com
https://www.youtube.com/c/MyGrowthRings
Follow on Instagram @MyGrowthRings
I also blog at http://www.tool-hunter.com/shopsmith-posts
and http://shopsmith-tool-hunter.blogspot.com/

A few viewers have requested I provide affiliate links to help them find the products I use and as a
way of supporting the channel through commission. If you purchase a product or service with the
links I provide, there is no additional charge to you. I always recommend shopping around for a
better price. Thank you for supporting My Growth Rings! Scott

Seems like that gripper comes in handy for narrow cuts like that.

At 5:20 you see the wood slip a bit during the cut, but maybe thats just not enough
downward force on that small of a surface and the saw starts winning.

I don't have one, and for some reason I always find myself trying to cut long narrow strips where you cant engage the shopsmith over fence version .
I probably should get one.

b

bainin wrote: Mon Apr 04, 2022 11:57 am At 5:20 you see the wood slip a bit during the cut, but maybe thats just not enough
downward force on that small of a surface and the saw starts winning.

b

True, it could have been lack of downward pressure, but there's two other things in play here, one of them for sure that would cause it to slip.

1. Lack of pressure, like you said.

2. More importantly, remember the pieces being cut were pre-finished hardwood flooring, with the finished face being engaged with the GrabberPro. Which would be difficult with any non-slip push block.

3. The non-slip materials on just about any push block are no match against sawdust. Just like with the Shopsmith push block, or any other aftermarket push block; sawdust is the enemy. Which could have also caused the slip to occur.

bainin wrote: Mon Apr 04, 2022 11:57 am At 5:20 you see the wood slip a bit during the cut, but maybe thats just not enough
downward force on that small of a surface and the saw starts winning.
b

Actually, the Grabber Pro has a built-in sacrificial pusher at the back and what you were seeing was me allowing it to slide as I continued to add enough downward pressure to keep it moving and not burning! I wish I had positioned the pusher against the end of the board before starting the cut, but I had to think on the fly. Good eye! Scott

My Growth Rings with Scott Markwood

SHOP NOTES: As we discussed in a prior video (linked below), the WEN Track Saw is available for under $200, while the Kreg Adaptive Cutting System Saw and Guide Track Kit is roughly $400; but are they worth It? In case you missed it, here's a far more detailed side-by side comparison of these two saws: https://youtu.be/cOgXabLu6fo

And the answer to the question in the thumbnail? No, Festool is sleeping quite soundly.

Visit http://www.MyGrowthRings.com
https://www.youtube.com/c/MyGrowthRings
Follow on Instagram @MyGrowthRings
I also blog at http://www.tool-hunter.com/shopsmith-posts
and http://shopsmith-tool-hunter.blogspot.com/

A few viewers have requested I provide affiliate links to help them find the products I use and as a
way of supporting the channel through commission. If you purchase a product or service with the
links I provide, there is no additional charge to you. I always recommend shopping around for a
better price. Thank you for supporting My Growth Rings! Scott

My Growth Rings with Scott Markwood

SHOP NOTES: I have expressed before how much I love the Shopsmith miter gauge, but even it wasn't spared an Achilles heel, of sorts: The tapered set screw that when it goes bad, things can get VERY bad!

Here's the video I mentioned where I show the use of a slip of paper to prevent the set screw from locking-up: https://youtu.be/2W99T1GjZ14

If you are new to the wonders of the Shopsmith miter gauge, check out this early video from my channel: https://youtu.be/ILqeevkKf3A

If this happens to your miter gauge there are several acceptable approaches while the bar is still stuck in the miter slot:
1.) Attempt to loosen the set screw with a new 5/32" hex wrench.
2.) Use a screw extractor.

If you can't get it to budged, consider removing the miter gauge from the table as shown in the video, and once removed:
1.) Try the hex wrench again. I may work now that the bar isn't constrained by the slot.
2.) From the bottom of the bar, try rotating the set screw out with a small #1 flat blade screwdriver. Note that you'll be pushing the tapered set screw forward, through the top of the bar.
3.) Use left handed (counter clock-wise) drill bit, followed by a screw extractor.

After extracting the set screw, as paste wax to the NEW tapered set screw. You weren't thinking about reusing that old one, were you? I didn't think so!

Please consider joining the 100+ other channel members in supporting the channel and get access to perks: https://www.youtube.com/c/MyGrowthRings/membership

Here's an idea: If you aren't ready or able to join the channel, you can always support the channel by watching, clicking the thumbs-up, commenting, sharing, and by clicking through the provided links whenever you are shopping on Amazon or eBay. You don't even need to purchase the items these links lead to, but by going through these links they'll reward us with a small "finders fee". Thanks in advance for the support!

Here are links to a few of the products I used or discussed in this video:
My favorite 9" long T-handle "Shopsmith Toolbox" 5/32" Hex Wrench: https://amzn.to/3sm3NcJ

Visit http://www.MyGrowthRings.com
https://www.youtube.com/c/MyGrowthRings
Follow on Instagram @MyGrowthRings
I also blog at http://www.tool-hunter.com/shopsmith-posts
and http://shopsmith-tool-hunter.blogspot.com/

A few viewers have requested I provide affiliate links to help them find the products I use and as a
way of supporting the channel through commission. If you purchase a product or service with the
links I provide, there is no additional charge to you. I always recommend shopping around for a
better price. Thank you for supporting My Growth Rings! Scott

#Shopsmith #StuckMiterGauge #LockedMiterGauge

Hi Scott, Just a quick tip for you and your users. If your long T-handle Hex Wrench gets worn on the end just grind off the end until you have undamaged sides. Probably less than a quarter of an inch. That was a great idea to get the stuck miter out of the slot. It might help to remove the stuck screw after you have the miter out by driving a small wood wedge into the slot in the miter to spread it.
Love you videos.