Shopsmith Forums

mickyd wrote: . . .have to admit it was fun trying it out on my newly restored Stanley chisels I've had since I was 18. Used 'scary sharp' method to bring the edges back.

I would appreciate help with two questions:

1. Is there a way to do a Forum search for a phrase like "scary sharp"? All I can get is results for each separate word.

2. Would someone be so kind as to point me to the thread that discusses the "scary sharp" process?

Thanks.

Darn!!!! I really hate the term "Scary Sharp".

There are really no degrees of sharpness.In a wood shop, a tool is either sharp or dull. If it is not sharp - it's dull! I will agree there are degrees of dullness. these go all the way from rough/tough cutting to nicked and chipped.

Actually the term scary sharpness is very misleading! A sharp tool is much safer than a dull one. Perhaps the "scary" term was born from the obligatory warnings of tool makers that their blades are sharp and give you a warning to not cut your self.

Responsibility of handling woodworking tools belongs to the user, and he/she would be a lot safer to use only sharp tools/blades.

tryinhard wrote:I would appreciate help with two questions:

1. Is there a way to do a Forum search for a phrase like "scary sharp"? All I can get is results for each separate word.

2. Would someone be so kind as to point me to the thread that discusses the "scary sharp" process?

Thanks.

1. Multiword forum searches can be done through at www.google.com by entering the following

site:ShopSmith.net enter your search criteria

for example: site:ShopSmith.net scary sharp

2. Here's a you tube video that shows a sandpaper process http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3yvJavgK6mo

Completed phase II of the pegboard storage rack assembly. These are the two door frames assembled and rabbeted on both sides side to accept the pegboard.
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The doors are mounted to the arms of the frames using the bolt, T-nut, and bushing shown in this post above
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The inside door has to be an inch narrower than the outside door in order to clear it as it swings open.
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You can see the 6" steel scale toward the bottom that shows the gap between the doors when in the closed position. There is about a 5" separation between the door surfaces which will be plenty for any taller tools.

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Next steps will be adding the top and bottom plywood panels into the dados on the horizontal arms (glued with screws) and then adding the pegboard to the door frames, both of which will add rigidity to the assembly.

Man this woodworking is FUN!!!!

mickyd wrote:....
Man this woodworking is FUN!!!!

And Man, you are doing great!:D

Time to start your first boat.

Paul M

charlese wrote:And Man, you are doing great!:D

Thanks Chuck. Keeps me out of mischief.

Anyone want to chime in on my finishing options for this project? I feel like I am finish challenged. All I know is paint, tung oil, urethane, and vanish. Since this is a workshop cabinet, cosmetics obviously aren't important so I was thinking straight tung oil??? What say you?

mickyd wrote:Thanks Chuck. Keeps me out of mischief.

Anyone want to chime in on my finishing options for this project? I feel like I am finish challenged. All I know is paint, tung oil, urethane, and vanish. Since this is a workshop cabinet, cosmetics obviously aren't important so I was thinking straight tung oil??? What say you?

Considering all the knots, shellac may be prudent!

I did not say 'good' or pretty.

A dark stain first will help 'disguise' them.

JPG40504 wrote:Considering all the knots, shellac may be prudent!

I did not say 'good' or pretty.

A dark stain first will help 'disguise' them.

Does wikipedia lie???:eek:
"Shellac is a resin secreted by the female lac bug, on trees in the forests of India and Thailand"