Shopsmith Forums

beeg wrote:Dusty, did you see this from JPG'S link?

"The Lock Button on the Door Control

The lock button on the door control may be activated. Press the button to turn this feature off. The light bulb will blink two times. This feature is designed to prompt you that the lock button is activated. When the lock button is ON the garage door opener will work from the door control but the remote controls are locked out."

See post #34.

beeg wrote:Dusty, did you see this from JPG'S link?

"The Lock Button on the Door Control

The lock button on the door control may be activated. Press the button to turn this feature off. The light bulb will blink two times. This feature is designed to prompt you that the lock button is activated. When the lock button is ON the garage door opener will work from the door control but the remote controls are locked out."

Thanks Beeg. I have confirmed that the Lock feature is disabled.

For right now, until I am confident that I don't have other problems, I am going to leave the Lock feature OFF. I have never known what that feature was. Now that I know about it, if it works as advertised, it will be good to have.

I think that the final corrective action is going to be to mount the two sensors in accordance with the installation instructions. That was not done at the time of installation. One sensor is a couple inches higher than the other. Yes, it has worked for years but now it is not so reliable as it once was.

Having the sensors looking at one another "eye-to-eye" may now be a requirement attributed to aging sensors.

While not yet finalized, I believe I have this issue on the run. I want to thank those who helped with their comments and I hope this discussion might help others.

Especially helpful to me was the link provided by JPG to the trouble isolation detail provided by Chamberlain. Be aware that the Sears door control systems are also Chamberlain.

dusty wrote:Yes, I can now see the led from the garage floor. I removed a shroud that was around the master unit.

I tested the door at 8:00am. The remote works to open the door but the door will not close under remote control. The door will close by pushing and holding the master door control.

I am now convinced that this entire issue has something to do with the strength of the invisible when exposed to the sunlight.

PS The led blinks four (4).

Dusty see this link http://chamberlain.custhelp.com/app/ans ... on-mean%3F

4 Flashes - The safety reversing sensor sending LED glows steadily, and the receiving light is dim or flashing. The safety reversing sensors are slightly misaligned.

Loosen the wing nut on the receiving sensor, clean the lens, realign the sensor until it glows steadily, then tighten the wing nut and secure the brackets.
Verify the door track is firmly secured to the wall and does not move.

Dusty this is confirmed at http://www.bearcatco.com/helpgifs/chamb ... oting.html


Problem

1 Flash The Protector System wire open or totally misaligned

2 Flashes The Protector System wire shorted or black/white wire reversal

3 Flashes Door Control or Multi-Function control Panel wire shorted

4 Flashes IR sensor slightly misaligned (dim or flashing sensor LED)

5 Flashes Motor overheated/Possible RPM sensor failure -- unplug to reset

6 Flashes Motor circuit failure -- replace RX/LX board

Rapid Flashing Chamberlain transmitter with the correct format code being received
(opener not necessarily programmed to respond)

Ed in Tampa wrote:Dusty see this link http://chamberlain.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/242/~/what-does-the-flashing-led-next-to-the-learn-button-mean%3F

4 Flashes - The safety reversing sensor sending LED glows steadily, and the receiving light is dim or flashing. The safety reversing sensors are slightly misaligned.

Loosen the wing nut on the receiving sensor, clean the lens, realign the sensor until it glows steadily, then tighten the wing nut and secure the brackets.
Verify the door track is firmly secured to the wall and does not move.

Dusty this is confirmed at http://www.bearcatco.com/helpgifs/chamberlain_troubleshooting.html


Problem

1 Flash The Protector System wire open or totally misaligned

2 Flashes The Protector System wire shorted or black/white wire reversal

3 Flashes Door Control or Multi-Function control Panel wire shorted

4 Flashes IR sensor slightly misaligned (dim or flashing sensor LED)

5 Flashes Motor overheated/Possible RPM sensor failure -- unplug to reset

6 Flashes Motor circuit failure -- replace RX/LX board

Rapid Flashing Chamberlain transmitter with the correct format code being received
(opener not necessarily programmed to respond)

Dirty sensor? If this is an revolutions per minute sensor, I retract my previous Boo Hisses!:)

I think the RPM sensor is de prime suspect now. It doesn't like bright ambient lighting;).

No I think it is obstruction sensor.
Most modern doors now have a infrared transmitter and receiver they are down at floor level on either side of the door. When something breaks the beam they stop the door opener.

Some actually reverse it to prevent trapping a child under the door.

On the new sears units if the door is open and something breaks the light the opener light turns on. This feature is nice if you are carrying things in the evening and your hands are full the light comes on.

My door an older model works on pressure if the something obstructs the door with a certain amount of resistance the door reverses and opens.

My travel limit switches are pots that you can adjust for the amount travel. I need mine to stop on opening the door about 1 inch before it hits the unit. I have to be real careful adjusting it or it will slam into the front of the unit. Don't ask!

[quote="JPG40504"]Dirty sensor? If this is an revolutions per minute sensor, I retract my previous Boo Hisses!:)

I think the RPM sensor is de prime suspect now. It doesn't like bright ambient lighting]

My guess is the obstruction sensor. I have seen installations where the guy that adjusted it left it at the very edge of target area. Then when the heat of the day comes the metal of the holder expands and moves the light or receiver outside the range. The actual target area is about a 3 inch circle so it is easy to aim. But guys in the rush just move it until it make and don't determine where the target is. So it ends up on an edge. Most of the time this works fine for life but things change.

Or over time since the transmitter and detector are actually mounted to the track. If the track has worked lose over time again the either the transmitter or receiver moves enough to make them lose the target.

I will guess a slight adjustment will solve the problem

[quote="JPG40504"]Dirty sensor? If this is an revolutions per minute sensor, I retract my previous Boo Hisses!:)

I think the RPM sensor is de prime suspect now. It doesn't like bright ambient lighting]

I must have failed to report this but the fault led flashes four (4) which supposedly indicates sensor malalignment.

I am toying with the idea of relocating one of the sensors so that I can locate them eye-to-eye. If I do that and have NO failures then sensor sensitivity or sensor alignment is my problem.

The location of the sensors (left side vs right side) have been swapped. No appreciable change.

dusty wrote:I must have failed to report this but the fault led flashes four (4) which supposedly indicates sensor malalignment.

See post #26:p


5 not equal to 4!:D

Prime suspect now the obstruction sensors.



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