Shopsmith Forums

thanks.

now I got a problem. trying to take off saw blade and having no luck. current pic of situation. am I missing a step?

got the set screw out, sprayed WD-40 to loosen, but no luck. WTF??? I don't want hurt anything.

wonder if I should start a different thread that covers JUST my quest to bring my SS to serviceable and nice looking condition. Wife's already planning projects... oh boy. Don't think I should be puttin it through it's paces without gettin it serviced...

2rr2nv wrote:thanks.

now I got a problem. trying to take off saw blade and having no luck. current pic of situation. am I missing a step?

got the set screw out, sprayed WD-40 to loosen, but no luck. WTF??? I don't want hurt anything.

wonder if I should start a different thread that covers JUST my quest to bring my SS to serviceable and nice looking condition. Wife's already planning projects... oh boy. Don't think I should be puttin it through it's paces without gettin it serviced...

AMEN!

First wd40 is a lousy penetrating fluid.(JMHO)

My favorite budget fluid is kerosene.

Others are available at greater $ pbblaster, kroil(sp?) etc.

The arbor must be removed from the quill as I believe you already realize(set screw removed).

Gentle heat may be utilized as a last resort.

Soaking and counter twisting may help. The arbor has flats for a wrench, the back upper output shaft can be used for the same purpose)applying torque).

Before it will slide off the quill, it must be 'busted loose'.

Do not do anything that might alter any dimension of the quill unless it is a burr or similar.

For the time being snug up that nut.]

2rr2nv wrote:thanks.

now I got a problem. trying to take off saw blade and having no luck. current pic of situation. am I missing a step?

got the set screw out, sprayed WD-40 to loosen, but no luck. WTF??? I don't want hurt anything.

wonder if I should start a different thread that covers JUST my quest to bring my SS to serviceable and nice looking condition. Wife's already planning projects... oh boy. Don't think I should be puttin it through it's paces without gettin it serviced...

Ah, the joys of an arbor frozen onto the quill! I had the same problem on a new-to-me 10ER several months ago.

You will almost certainly need something stronger than WD40 to free it. Penetrating oil is a good place to start. I use PB Blaster, and some folks swear by Kroil. Squirt it in the setscrew hole, and let it marinate. Replenish as needed.

After about a week of PB Blaster, my arbor was still stuck. Out came the propane torch to apply a little thermal shock to the bond. Even after all that, some mechanical persuasion was still required. In my case, I inserted the sharp edge of a junky old chisel into the crack behind the chuck, and tapped with increasing force until it broke loose. This risked damaging the spindle bearings, but I was prepared to replace those.

yeah, no heat to use. Yeah, WD-40 is all I have and usually for me, it works. been soaking the heck out of it. no budge. grrrr.

BuckeyeDennis wrote:Ah, the joys of an arbor frozen onto the quill! I had the same problem on a new-to-me 10ER several months ago.

You will almost certainly need something stronger than WD40 to free it. Penetrating oil is a good place to start. I use PB Blaster, and some folks swear by Kroil. Squirt it in the setscrew hole, and let it marinate. Replenish as needed.

After about a week of PB Blaster, my arbor was still stuck. Out came the propane torch to apply a little thermal shock to the bond. Even after all that, some mechanical persuasion was still required. In my case, I inserted the sharp edge of a junky old chisel into the crack behind the chuck, and tapped with increasing force until it broke loose. This risked damaging the spindle bearings, but I was prepared to replace those.

yeah, looks like I might have to resort to more drastic measures. I hate being impatient. I want to play.

by chance, do you know how much those bearings cost? I might need to budget for that...

2rr2nv wrote:yeah, looks like I might have to resort to more drastic measures. I hate being impatient. I want to play.

by chance, do you know how much those bearings cost? I might need to budget for that...

At only 9 years old, my Mark V is practically new by Shopsmith standards. So I haven't had to dig into the headstock.

I do know that different vintages have different spindle designs and bearing configurations, so it will take a bit of research to figure out what bearings you would need. I did replace a spindle bearing on a Power Station, and a motor bearing on a radial arm saw, and from that would speculate that they will be in the ballpark of $20 each for good quality ones.

Other folks here will be able to give you more/better info on the bearings and other headstock internals.

Tap on the end with a hammer to break it loose or pull out the gear puller.

Wish I had a gear puller that big. have em but not THAT big. I think we might be heading out for some stuff so I may be able to pick up some better penetrant. may give the hammer tap a try too.

Thanks ya all.

Scot "Z".

and here are the latest pics messing around with installing whatnot and trying out my polishing skills on the uprights...

If you slide the loosened nut and blade toward the headstock does it give enough room for your puller on the arbor ?

beatnik wrote:Tap on the end with a hammer to break it loose or pull out the gear puller.

The 'legs' of the gear puller need only get around the outer end of the arbor lip. The end is open so the puller center screw will press against the shaft.

With the nut loosened, the blade should move far enough to allow the legs to get behind the lip.

This will only work for this type arbor!(open end)