Shopsmith Forums

reible wrote:In the cut pictured you are doing a plunge cut, from what I can see you must have a plunge bit?

Now I have to ask, do you have three arms? One to hold the stock, one to advance the bit into the wood and then the third one to lock the quill in place. Like wise at the end of the cut, one holding the stock, one loosening the quill and one letting the quill rise.........Short of having three arms this is just plain unsafe.

I would never attempt that cut with the shopsmith in over head mode. This is where the shopsmith over head router comes in and works like a champ. You have one hand to control the wood and then the quill feed is done with the other hand and a twist of the feed lever locks the bit at depth. You have to be in control of the work piece at all time.

Under table works fine like this by dropping the work piece over the bit but you need to set up stops at each end or at least mark the fence to determine the entry and exit locations.

It also looks like the cut is maybe 1/4" deep, that is about the limit I would go on a single pass and depending on the wood that might be too much.

I don't see any indications in the cut of vibration. Were you experiencing vibration during the cut?


How hard is it to push the stock against the finger boards when feeding without the bit in the wood? You can make them too tight is why I ask. This can hinder a uniform feed among other things.

From the photo it looks like you might be feeding the wood with the use of a push block and then somehow switching to the other side to pull it???

You need to make a push block with a "V" cut in the bottom and a end piece so you can trap both down and against the fence. On that short of work piece it can hold it against the fence, down to the table and feed at at once. This is a really good way to have good control while feeding, especially on shorter pieces. Short of this two push blocks would work but it is not as nice or easy to do. Remember that you want to control the work piece at all times and keep your fingers out of the way.

A few other people have pointed out the excess quill extension and looking to to guarding up the cutter. There is a saying that the only good routing is safe routing.

I take it that you were not able to reach shopsmith today? Still might be a good idea to give them a call if you can work it in.

Ed

JPG wrote: It is possible to feed the quill and lock it with one hand. Helps to set lock partially so it drags slightly or holds but is not completely tight(something I do often).

reible wrote:In the cut pictured you are doing a plunge cut, from what I can see you must have a plunge bit?

Now I have to ask, do you have three arms? One to hold the stock, one to advance the bit into the wood and then the third one to lock the quill in place. Like wise at the end of the cut, one holding the stock, one loosening the quill and one letting the quill rise.........Short of having three arms this is just plain unsafe.

I would never attempt that cut with the shopsmith in over head mode. This is where the shopsmith over head router comes in and works like a champ. You have one hand to control the wood and then the quill feed is done with the other hand and a twist of the feed lever locks the bit at depth. You have to be in control of the work piece at all time.

Under table works fine like this by dropping the work piece over the bit but you need to set up stops at each end or at least mark the fence to determine the entry and exit locations.

It also looks like the cut is maybe 1/4" deep, that is about the limit I would go on a single pass and depending on the wood that might be too much.

I don't see any indications in the cut of vibration. Were you experiencing vibration during the cut?


How hard is it to push the stock against the finger boards when feeding without the bit in the wood? You can make them too tight is why I ask. This can hinder a uniform feed among other things.

From the photo it looks like you might be feeding the wood with the use of a push block and then somehow switching to the other side to pull it???

You need to make a push block with a "V" cut in the bottom and a end piece so you can trap both down and against the fence. On that short of work piece it can hold it against the fence, down to the table and feed at at once. This is a really good way to have good control while feeding, especially on shorter pieces. Short of this two push blocks would work but it is not as nice or easy to do. Remember that you want to control the work piece at all times and keep your fingers out of the way.

A few other people have pointed out the excess quill extension and looking to to guarding up the cutter. There is a saying that the only good routing is safe routing.

I take it that you were not able to reach shopsmith today? Still might be a good idea to give them a call if you can work it in.

Ed

reible wrote:In the cut pictured you are doing a plunge cut, from what I can see you must have a plunge bit?

Now I have to ask, do you have three arms? One to hold the stock, one to advance the bit into the wood and then the third one to lock the quill in place. Like wise at the end of the cut, one holding the stock, one loosening the quill and one letting the quill rise.........Short of having three arms this is just plain unsafe.

I would never attempt that cut with the shopsmith in over head mode. This is where the shopsmith over head router comes in and works like a champ. You have one hand to control the wood and then the quill feed is done with the other hand and a twist of the feed lever locks the bit at depth. You have to be in control of the work piece at all time.

Under table works fine like this by dropping the work piece over the bit but you need to set up stops at each end or at least mark the fence to determine the entry and exit locations.

It also looks like the cut is maybe 1/4" deep, that is about the limit I would go on a single pass and depending on the wood that might be too much.

I don't see any indications in the cut of vibration. Were you experiencing vibration during the cut?


How hard is it to push the stock against the finger boards when feeding without the bit in the wood? You can make them too tight is why I ask. This can hinder a uniform feed among other things.

From the photo it looks like you might be feeding the wood with the use of a push block and then somehow switching to the other side to pull it???

You need to make a push block with a "V" cut in the bottom and a end piece so you can trap both down and against the fence. On that short of work piece it can hold it against the fence, down to the table and feed at at once. This is a really good way to have good control while feeding, especially on shorter pieces. Short of this two push blocks would work but it is not as nice or easy to do. Remember that you want to control the work piece at all times and keep your fingers out of the way.

A few other people have pointed out the excess quill extension and looking to to guarding up the cutter. There is a saying that the only good routing is safe routing.

I take it that you were not able to reach shopsmith today? Still might be a good idea to give them a call if you can work it in.

Ed

wa2crk wrote:My wife and I baby sat a dog once. It was named Sasha. When she went home I said to my wife 'I know why they named her Sasha"
Wife said why?
"because she was sasha pain in the A--!!"
Bill V