Shopsmith Forums

I like your thinking, Dusty, but taking off the front rails to use that set up to assure the table doesn't move while tightening trunion bolts creates other hassles, namely reattaching and realigning the rails.

When I had my contractor's saw, I installed the A-Line-It "PALS," which allow micro adjustment of the table to the blade as well as preventing loss of alignment while the trunion bolts are tightened. http://in-lineindustries.com/products/c ... -saw-pals/

I don't think the stock PALS would work on the Shopsmith. For one thing, they cant be put on top of the Shopsmith trunion because of the trunion shape and I'm not sure you'd want something that thick under the trunions. Not sure how it would change the tilting table geometry. At a minimum, it would fractionally reduce the maximum depth of cut as the table would now be higher. Also the standard PALS probably aren't "long" enough to get the adjustment bolts around to the outside of the Shopsmith trunion.

That said, I think the idea could be adapted. Instead of going under the trunion, one would need to find a location where the angle pieces can be affixed, possibly epoxied, to the bottom of the table or bolted to a rib (if any are in the right location). Again, attention would need to be paid to the table geometry to make sure the angle pieces didn't interfere with the table being raised, lowered, tilted, etc. or with the lower saw guard.

Those washers are 'thick' so as to prevent them from 'forming' aka bending/compressing.

algale wrote:I like your thinking, Dusty, but taking off the front rails to use that set up to assure the table doesn't move while tightening trunion bolts creates other hassles, namely reattaching and realigning the rails.

When I had my contractor's saw, I installed the A-Line-It "PALS," which allow micro adjustment of the table to the blade as well as preventing loss of alignment while the trunion bolts are tightened. http://in-lineindustries.com/products/c ... -saw-pals/

I don't think the stock PALS would work on the Shopsmith. For one thing, they cant be put on top of the Shopsmith trunion because of the trunion shape and I'm not sure you'd want something that thick under the trunions. Not sure how it would change the tilting table geometry. At a minimum, it would fractionally reduce the maximum depth of cut as the table would now be higher. Also the standard PALS probably aren't "long" enough to get the adjustment bolts around to the outside of the Shopsmith trunion.

That said, I think the idea could be adapted. Instead of going under the trunion, one would need to find a location where the angle pieces can be affixed, possibly epoxied, to the bottom of the table or bolted to a rib (if any are in the right location). Again, attention would need to be paid to the table geometry to make sure the angle pieces didn't interfere with the table being raised, lowered, tilted, etc. or with the lower saw guard.

NO! It was never my intention to remove rails to facilitate alignment. The table in the picture is an extra for which I have no long rails. I should have commented to that effect.

You do make a good point. One needs to check the ribbing on the undersides of the tables. They are not all the same.

JPG wrote:Those washers are 'thick' so as to prevent them from 'forming' aka bending/compressing.

Even without the washer, there is a flat surface where the head would contact the table. But OKAY, I asked because I really did not know. It just seems strange to use trunnion bolts that are long and then put thick washers there to fill the space so the bolt does not bottom out in the hole (which does happen in all of my tables).

I just recently ordered from Shopsmith two complete sets of bolts and washers. These are what came bringing me to the conclusion that the length is what Shopsmith intends.

Yeah the PALS idea was what I was thinking.

Dusty you need to figure out how to adapt the PALS idea to the Shopsmith. Then table alignment would be very fast, very precise and would probably only needed to be done once or every time someone loosens the table bolts.

You should using PALS idea be able to dial in the blade to table alignment to a perfect .000" tolerance.

Ignoring the 'thickness' for this post, the purpose of a washer between a screw(aka bolt) head and the surface the washer bears against is to remove the torque force from that surface. The force exerted by the washer is 'axial' on the side of the washer away from the head.

However friction must prevent the washer from rotating with the head. A precision head will have a reduced contact area under it. Since the washer has a greater area on the opposite side, the washer does not rotate with the head.

Yes there are exceedable limits where the washer will rotate. A deformed washer comes to mind.

algale wrote:I like your thinking, Dusty, but taking off the front rails to use that set up to assure the table doesn't move while tightening trunion bolts creates other hassles, namely reattaching and realigning the rails.

When I had my contractor's saw, I installed the A-Line-It "PALS," which allow micro adjustment of the table to the blade as well as preventing loss of alignment while the trunion bolts are tightened. http://in-lineindustries.com/products/c ... -saw-pals/

I don't think the stock PALS would work on the Shopsmith. For one thing, they cant be put on top of the Shopsmith trunion because of the trunion shape and I'm not sure you'd want something that thick under the trunions. Not sure how it would change the tilting table geometry. At a minimum, it would fractionally reduce the maximum depth of cut as the table would now be higher. Also the standard PALS probably aren't "long" enough to get the adjustment bolts around to the outside of the Shopsmith trunion.

That said, I think the idea could be adapted. Instead of going under the trunion, one would need to find a location where the angle pieces can be affixed, possibly epoxied, to the bottom of the table or bolted to a rib (if any are in the right location). Again, attention would need to be paid to the table geometry to make sure the angle pieces didn't interfere with the table being raised, lowered, tilted, etc. or with the lower saw guard.

Algae
I don't think the thickness between the trunnion and table will effect the depth of cut. Depth of cut is determined by table blade arbor clearance. The only thing effected by the thickness between the table and trunnion would be how low you could lower the table for sanding with disk at the side of the table.
At least you hat is what I think.

Add table hitting top of headstock to that 'list'.

Dusty,

I have seen thinner washers used. Because of the oversized holes in the trunions, they become dome shaped when the bolts are tightened. If you try to realign the table, the table keeps shifting when you tighten the bolts. The thicker washers are a good thing.

Ron

RonKlein wrote:Dusty,

I have seen thinner washers used. Because of the oversized holes in the trunions, they become dome shaped when the bolts are tightened. If you try to realign the table, the table keeps shifting when you tighten the bolts. The thicker washers are a good thing.

Ron

I now have the thicker washers on all four tables. The only improvement seems to be that all four are now assembled with the correct hardware.
'
I messed up the alignment on my "go to" machine, however. I I have not been able to get it back where it was. I worked (getting nowhere, for long enough this morning that I was saying things I wanted no one to hear. I quit. My main table is out of alignment so I pulled the table insert, loosened all four trunnion bolts, tilted the table and left. I find that when frustrated trying to fix it just gets worse.