Shopsmith Forums

Thank you jpg and Russ...There is a key slot cut into the casting, so I think I would need the keyed handle/wedges.

Also, the handle does just flop around in there until it comes out the other side of the casting...

I will continue to disassemble and see what’s going on in there.

Thanks again...

Looking back at a couple things we haven't clarified yet. The Table posts should be 13" long. Hopefully one of the two you have is that long. It does seem odd that someone would cut off one of them.

I was looking back at the picture you posted after cleaning up some parts. I have reposted it below. The round item, in the lower right corner, may be a lathe faceplate but not a Shopsmith one. To be useable it needs a 5/8" diameter bore with a set screw to attach it to the spindle. There is one arbor as noted that is not a Shopsmith arbor. It is the 1/2" threaded arbor with 2 set screws. It can still be used if it has a 5/8" bore to go on the spindle.

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After so many years non-Shopsmith parts/items commonly get mixed in with a Shopsmith Tool. Sometimes because they were being used on the Shopsmith or simply because they look like they could belong to the Shopsmith.

Understood...I will try to sort out the correct parts...right now, I’m working with the knobs...the brass threaded one went in the other carriage stop...still need to locate the other three...trying to match them up with the exploded diagram...

Also, should be able to tap out the cup center this afternoon...

The 4 Knobs shown in you picture above are -
upper left - either the Headrest or Base Plate (lock for Drill Press Position) They are nearly the same although the Base Plate one is usually beveled on the end of the threads. This is to avoid damaging the end of the threads when screwing into the Arm of the Base Assembly.
lower left - is the Carriage Knob for locking the table height and there are 2.
upper right - is for locking the Extension Table Bracket to the Tailstock.
lower right - is for locking the Tailstock to the Shopsmith.

A knob I haven't seen in your pictures is the Table Riser Knob which locks the Table Riser Arm to the Table Post. The knob itself looks similar to the rear fence lock knob but has a brass threaded stud.

I cannot get the cup center out of the tailstock. I soaked it in evaporust and it appears completely clean now, but I cannot get it out with brass drift and hammer.

Will have to try to get some ATF and mix up the acetone stuff I guess. If I can get the large hex nuts loose on it, it should come out also, right?

If you remove the nut on the floating center it will come right out. I use large adjustable Crescent Wrenches for that. I would remove the center first. Tapping the back side should have knocked it loose already. It is a standard #2 Morse Taper Lathe Dead Center and only friction fits in the tailstock. Do use caution "knocking" it out and have something, and not a hand or other body part, to catch it to avoid damaging the point.

I mean, I’m using a brass drift and hammer hitting it pretty hard...do I just really need to knock the living **** out of it? I will make sure it lands on a soft surface.

Should I be hitting the center part only? Or the entire diameter just shy of the nut?

I have two crescent type adjustable wrenches, but neither opens large enough to grip these.

Hit only the inside part where the red arrow is pointing to. I shouldn't take a lot of force

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Hit the center only(that is the part being removed). See pix above.

Have the hex shaped part on the opposite side fixed(stationary/against an anvil like thingie[large mass]).

Simultaneous rotating force to the tailstock using a rod through the hole MAY help.

YES banging the crap out of it MAY be required. Sneak op on the big bang gradually.

Ok, got it...have a small anvil I will try bracing it with and will hit center part only. Thanks, fellas...