Snack Tray Cabinet
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a1gutterman
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I used this method to hang a tool cabinet with two sets of swinging racks inside . It is heavy, and full it is really heavy. The plans called for the back of the cabinet to be 3/4 in ply. I followed the plan , the "chickened out" and put a second cleat at the bottom. The good thing here is that the cleats on the wall can be fastened with 2-3 screws per stud and the cleat on the cabinet can have a screw as often as you want to put one in. This seemed to eliminate any twisting or sagging in my application. I have my shop wall covered with salvaged 1/4 in ply, so This method allowed me to put the cleat pretty much any where I wanted horizontally, while still getting at least 2 studs.
When I made one of these for my son in-law, He could hang it in the same manner on a dry-walled garage pretty much any where he wanted.
When I made one of these for my son in-law, He could hang it in the same manner on a dry-walled garage pretty much any where he wanted.
Finally- it's in the house!
The month of January, building. The month of February finishing. -- Now I can call it DONE! Thanks to Woodsmith Magazine's plans we now have a Snack Tray Cabinet. Had a bit of a delay with a set of issues concerning the top of the cabinet. I'll explain in the next post, but here are photos of the finished piece. The lower two drawers contain trays, the other three are just drawers.
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Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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judaspre1982
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Last edited by judaspre1982 on Sat May 20, 2017 9:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
About the finish on the top of the cabinet. I waited a full three weeks for the Danish oil to impregnate and set up in the oak top. Well, it seems the cold nights where it got down to 30 degrees many nights in the shop (20 degrees outside) slowed the curing process more than I'd reckoned.
The top felt and appeared dry. There hadn't been a single drop of oil appearing on the top in a full week. I had even warmed the shop up to 70 (afternoons) during the last of February. So, I applied 4 coats of water based Varathane. It was looking good!
Then our warmer nights and days came. I had been allowing each coat of poly to cure overnight to make sure of a hard surface to sand. Right before I thought I was preparing for the last application of poly, I sanded lightly with 220 grit and spots of oil started appearing on the surface. Al tough the oil was clear and could be wiped away, it kept on coming, kinda like turning on a faucet. Where the oil was wiped away, there was a small smear on top of the finish. I knew another coat of water base poly would have fish eyes. Besides, I couldn't turn off the oil spigots.
I had even thought of sanding the whole top down to wood and starting over. (putting this as the last resort) Also thought of buying a can of oil based poly for a top layer, but wasn't sure the oil would stop coming to the surface even through that. Finally it dawned on me to put the piece out in the Sun and let the heat draw it out. That worked, and in 5 hrs of sunlight the oil stopped.
So then I tried a big rub down with steel wool (0000) followed by another two coats of water based poly, followed by a rub with more 0000. That seemed to seal the deal, so to speak. And the top has remained firm and smooth for 48 hours.
The top felt and appeared dry. There hadn't been a single drop of oil appearing on the top in a full week. I had even warmed the shop up to 70 (afternoons) during the last of February. So, I applied 4 coats of water based Varathane. It was looking good!
Then our warmer nights and days came. I had been allowing each coat of poly to cure overnight to make sure of a hard surface to sand. Right before I thought I was preparing for the last application of poly, I sanded lightly with 220 grit and spots of oil started appearing on the surface. Al tough the oil was clear and could be wiped away, it kept on coming, kinda like turning on a faucet. Where the oil was wiped away, there was a small smear on top of the finish. I knew another coat of water base poly would have fish eyes. Besides, I couldn't turn off the oil spigots.
I had even thought of sanding the whole top down to wood and starting over. (putting this as the last resort) Also thought of buying a can of oil based poly for a top layer, but wasn't sure the oil would stop coming to the surface even through that. Finally it dawned on me to put the piece out in the Sun and let the heat draw it out. That worked, and in 5 hrs of sunlight the oil stopped.
So then I tried a big rub down with steel wool (0000) followed by another two coats of water based poly, followed by a rub with more 0000. That seemed to seal the deal, so to speak. And the top has remained firm and smooth for 48 hours.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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a1gutterman
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- Posts: 3653
- Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 12:45 am
- Location: "close to" Seattle
ATTA BOY CHUCK.
That's a great looking piece of furniture. You do such GREAT work.
That's a great looking piece of furniture. You do such GREAT work.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob