Shopsmith Forums

mbcabinetmaker wrote:Here is one of the upper units being trimmed. Notice the plinth blocks on the bottom and trim around the top of the flutes. Here as on the bottom cabinets I used a solid block behind. Notice the small sample of RB3 Flex molding in the second picture. Those pieces have been ordered.

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Always keep the Mark 5 set up with the sanding disc when running moldings.

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Mark

This didn't look like $800.00 dollars worth of plywood!!!

What type of plywood are you using and where did you get them (HD/Lowes or other)?

Mark:
Making a splintered comment like that would just go against my grain. since you have such a warped sense of humor I think I will split.

Tim
It it is B2 grade birch 10 sheets 3/4, 5 sheets 1/4 1 sheet 1/4 inch oak and 1 3/4 MDF. I buy it through a local plywood distributor with the Worth Group. That birch is up to close to $60.00 per sheet now.

Good one Francis. I've got no comeback.

Mark

The door style for these cabinets starts with a simple shaker flat panel. To that we will add a molding around the inside of the panel. This post is about setting up the Shopsmiths to run the rails and styles. I set up the 520 to run a 1/4 inch groove 1/2 of an inch deep. Both rails and styles get this cut. We will then cut the rails on the Mark 5.

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To cut the rail ends I use a simple jig on the miter gage. Set to notch the ends at just under 1/2 of an inch.

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I made this sample door without the panel for demonstration purposes.

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Mark

Some of you may have figured this trick out, great minds thinking alike and all. I use my 520 for several different dado operations. I discovered that if I cut a memory block for each operation it saves a lot of trial cuts when I need to set one up. This is for dadoing the drawer sides for bottoms.

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More tomorrow
Mark

I sure hope you have another big job lined up to follow this one into the shop. I've gotten so that I look forward to the next progress report each evening. It'll be a real bummer if one day there is none.

It has also be said that real woodworkers (professionals) don't use a Shopsmith. You have certainly disproved that.

Dusty

My next job is not as glamorous as this one. Black Formica covered cabinets in the shape of a horse shoe!:(

Mark

I like to use space balls in the panels of the doors. Cut the door panel 1/4 inch smaller than the space. This allows 1/8 inch all the way around the panel. I use 8 space balls per door.

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The drum sander makes short work of sanding. I sand down to 120 grit here and then back to the orbital sanders 120 for paint grade 120 and 150 for stain grade. Be sure you get all the cross grain sanding marks out.

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I make inset doors the size of the opening and then cut them down to allow 1/16 inch all the way around. Here I am sanding on a edge stroke sander. The Shopsmith with the sanding fence and drum sander would do a good job on this operation.

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Mark

mbcabinetmaker wrote:Some of you may have figured this trick out, great minds thinking alike and all. I use my 520 for several different dado operations. I discovered that if I cut a memory block for each operation it saves a lot of trial cuts when I need to set one up. This is for dadoing the drawer sides for bottoms.


More tomorrow
Mark

Good tip for Dados - I'll have to remember that one!!

Since you have 2 SS's (one full, one shorty) what typical
configurations do you have them setup for?