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Posted: Sat May 02, 2009 6:26 pm
by JPG
iclark wrote:IF (and only if) you reach the point where the only other remaining choice is drilling it out, there is one other desperation method that you can try:
use a hex rod the right size for the allen screw (or allen wrench if you don't have one)
put the rod in the screw and use a wrench or vice grips to torque the rod as much as you dare (I'd try tightening first, but that's just me)
while it is torqued, rap the end of the rod firmly with a hammer to vibrate the rod.
this is a variant on the old trick to break loose stubborn lug bolts with an x-wrench.
down side: if you hit it too hard, you may shear out the threads.
thinking about it, have you tried a hammer drill/driver with a hex insert?
the hammer effect should do everything I suggested above and you could try starting at a low torque setting and work up to where it either breaks loose or runs out of settings. just be careful that you don't accidentally lock the driver in the on position.
FWIW, I once saw my father precision drill out a broken bolt, clean the hole threads with a dental pick, run a tap through the hole to clean up some burrs, and had the original threads effectively back. he was a very good machinist and still considered himself lucky to get away with this one.
Ivan
YEP Impact wrench might work. The drill it out method is very dicey if done 'free hand'. The last thing you want is to mess up the casting.
Headstock Quill lever Allen Screw?
Posted: Sat May 02, 2009 7:41 pm
by billmayo
JPG40504 wrote:YEP Impact wrench might work. The drill it out method is very dicey if done 'free hand'. The last thing you want is to mess up the casting.
This is a good case for having a Shopsmith dedicated to the drill press mode. I bolted the base to a movable stand using longer tube lock bolts. I mounted the carriage and headstock opposite (over the base arm) than normal placement. I have had good luck drilling the quill housing and quill feed set screws using this setup. I leave the carriage againest the base arm (allows use of additional blocks for bracing/strengthing the main table) and use a bottle jack to raise/lower the headstock. With a X/Y vice I do limited milling with this setup.
Posted: Sat May 02, 2009 8:31 pm
by baddlad
OK I have tried everything short of the impact wrench or anything like that. I don't think I want to even try drilling it out. If I can find someone with one of those tools I will try that. If not I think I am going to leave it. I mean it was in that position to begin with and covered with putty, and it doesn't keep me from reassembling anything. On the bright side I sure learned a lot about set screws, thanks for all the suggestions guys.
Posted: Sat May 02, 2009 8:42 pm
by SDSSmith
baddlad wrote: On the bright side I sure learned a lot about set screws, thanks for all the suggestions guys.
That's the nice thing about this forum you are almost guaranteed to learn something new no matter what you ask. And if you're lucky, you will also get an answer to your original question.
Posted: Sat May 02, 2009 9:25 pm
by JPG
baddlad wrote:OK I have tried everything short of the impact wrench or anything like that. I don't think I want to even try drilling it out. If I can find someone with one of those tools I will try that. If not I think I am going to leave it. I mean it was in that position to begin with and covered with putty, and it doesn't keep me from reassembling anything. On the bright side I sure learned a lot about set screws, thanks for all the suggestions guys.
FYI:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=93481
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 1:18 am
by iclark
here's a previous thread discussing impact drivers and drill/drivers.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3209
after re-reading it, I realized that I was thinking impact driver when I said drill/driver above. sorry.
I was probably confusing the clutch chatter with a hammer drill. although I see that DeWalt does make a combo hammer_drill/drill/driver.
Ivan
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 3:01 am
by Ron309753
The screws holding the table insert on my Greenie were in so tight that I bent an allen wrench and stripped the inside of the screw trying to get them out. I had one of those Grabit bits lying around and gave it a try and it backed right out. I dont know if the grabit would work on a set screw. It may be too big but worth a look.
Ron
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 3:57 am
by JPG
Ron309753 wrote:The screws holding the table insert on my Greenie were in so tight that I bent an allen wrench and stripped the inside of the screw trying to get them out. I had one of those Grabit bits lying around and gave it a try and it backed right out. I dont know if the grabit would work on a set screw. It may be too big but worth a look.
Ron
WHAT is a 'GRABIT" bit???
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 4:24 am
by mickyd
Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 10:38 am
by JPG
Makes sense for STRIPPED heads. Doubt it would work on siezed screws. Looks handy enough to pick next time I see them.
