Having trouble with my upper saw guard.

greitz · Post by **greitz** » Fri May 29, 2009 2:55 pm

JPG40504- You're probably right, it's likely operator error, I'm probably not centered on the flat part of the spindle. All I know is that I tighten it up, put the upper guard on, then turn the saw on and let it run at "saw speed" for a few seconds. Then check to see if the riving knife is still lined up with the blade. If so, turn it on and off again, and check again. If it's still lined up, I consider it good to go. If it's not lined up, I remove the guard, reinstall the blade, and try again. If it requires a third tightening, I give up and replace the set screw.

I like the "rocking the arbor" idea, I'll give it a shot. Thanks, Dusty!

Yes, replacing the set screw is cheap insurance. And it doesn't happen very often.

With my Shopsmith dado blade, I could never get it to stay tight using the original set screw. Must have tried a dozen times. Finally replaced the set screw with one from the Help Kit and haven't had a problem since.

Gary

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri May 29, 2009 4:57 pm

It is difficult to align the blade with the riving knife.

Well no more, at least not for me. I have devised a new procedure that I shall use.

Start with the lower saw guard and blade arbor removed from the quill.

Extend the quill two or three inches (to gain access to the riving knife stop screw).

Adjust the riving knife stop screw all the way in.

Mount the lower saw guard and the blade arbor onto the quill.

Slide the lower saw guard as far onto the quill as it will go and secure it in place.

Mount the blade as far onto the arbor as it will go and secure it into place.

Install the riving knife into the lower saw guard and tighten it into place.

Check alignment of the blade and riving knife. If they align, you are done. Go make saw dust - after you have put everythng back together properly.

If the blade and arbor did not align - loosen the screw that secures the lower saw guard to the quill housing.

move the lower saw guard until the blade and riving knife are properly aligned. Secure the lower saw guard to the quill housing.

Using a short allen wrench, adjust the riving knife stop screw out until it just touches the snap ring on the business end of the quill housing.

You are done. You can now take the lower saw guard on and off without repeating this procedure again until either you change blades, arbors or saw guard or whenever you determine that the riving knife does not align with the blade.

[ATTACH]4703[/ATTACH][ATTACH]4704[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]4705[/ATTACH][ATTACH]4706[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]4707[/ATTACH]

greitz · Post by **greitz** » Fri May 29, 2009 6:16 pm

Dusty- COOL! Definitely going to print this one out and put it in my manual. Much easier than the other trial and error procedure. Thanks! Good pictures, also, they help a lot.

Gary

shydragon · Post by **shydragon** » Fri May 29, 2009 6:57 pm

Well all be darn, never ever crossed my mind to extend the quill. What I have done, if I was close, I would take a playing card with a groove cut in it and slide it down along side the riving knife to move it the thickness of the playing card, then tighten.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri May 29, 2009 8:52 pm

greitz wrote:
. . .

I like the "rocking the arbor" idea, I'll give it a shot. Thanks, Dusty!

. . .

Gary

Rocking should ALWAYS be done when attaching ANYTHING to the spindle shaft!;)

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sat May 30, 2009 1:02 am

dusty wrote:When I find a set screw on the floor, it scares the bejeebers out of me because I don't know what is loose. When that happens, I spend a few minutes to check the screws on those items that I have used recently.

Me Too! Usually I find it (the set screw on the floor) has come from one of the un-used fence post holes on the belt sander. But I still have one screw sitting on a shelf, waiting to find its place again.