Shopsmith Forums

IF the control sheave is sticking on the idler shaft pushng against it with the new porkchop will indeed create early wear.

FWIW the purpose of the clip over the end of the porkchop is NOT to allow it to pull the control sheave open. Rather it is to keep the inner race of the button bearing from rotating. Decreased belt tension causes the spring loaded floating sheave to close the motor pulley thus restoring the tension at the idler pulley and forcing it open.

Thanks for all the detail, Russ.
I think I may fixed the problem but may as well do some of the maintenance you suggest.
I was able to get the inner idler sheave off.
The key seemed ok.
I had to leave for a few hours and didn't get to report this.

I am going to dress the teeth on the quadrant to address the little bit of chewing.

I have laser surgery tomorrow late morning and hope to have it back together late afternoon or evening.

All of you have been great and I appreciate it./

Perils of Pauline.

I put it all back together and fired it up and the idler pulley wouldn't turn.
Somehow the belt got wedged in between the sheaves binding it up.
Had a dickens of a time getting it loose until I took the speed control back out to slide the inner sheave.
The belt is a little bit chewed but I think my new one comes today.

I have to wait a little longer to see if I got it.
LOL

I'm stymied.
Put the new belt on (went pretty easy)
Installed the speed control (again).

I can only go to "M" on the speed dial and the quadrant has traveled the whole distance and the idler stops until I reverse to K or L.

Also, to my ears, it doesn't seem to be going faster as I increase the speed

Pulleys (sheaves) at slow speed The loop on the speed control rides forward as the speed increases.
Should it be stationary on the spring?
Sheaves at M
I have a short video but can't get it from my phone to computer.

I'm starting to study the info Russ posted on the Greenie

There's something wrong in this picture



With the belt off the motor sheave, it should be fully closed by the spring tension. In the photo it's wide open. It should slide freely on the shaft but the spring should hold it closed very firmly. Sort that and I think your issue will be resolved.

I can't tell from the photo -- are the fins on the two halves of the sheave touching, resting on each other? It looks like they might be. They should interleave like your fingers do when you clasp your hands.

Thanks for the feedback.
That was a photo from the other day.
But, it doesn't appear that the motor sheaves are moving.
If they did, it looks like they would interweave.

Which one is supposed to move; the inner or the outer?
Both are tighter than a miser.

Back to the manual.

Or YouTube.

Inner is stationary, outer moves

Thank you.
Looks like I pound a piece of wood to loosen the sheave.
I've put 3 in 1 on the spring and Blaster on the shaft.

I recommend disassembly, cleaning and lubrication.

DO be cautious re releasing spring tension.

You need a lever(piece of wood with) a counter bored hole to fit over the washer so the retaining clip can be removed/installed.

Since the floating sheave appears stuck it may require much consternation to get it freed up.

I would not pound unless absolutely necessary and do direct it correctly.

Unfortunately, with the spring already compressed you cannot safely remove the clip to release the spring from the motor shaft. There is almost no compression space left to follow JPG's suggestion and the safer way to remove the spring. Without the moving sheave able to close against the fixed sheave it would be dangerous to remove the clip holding the washer and spring in place without being able to restrain them. Forcing the movable sheave closed may end up damaging it and/or other parts.

Is it possible that the moving sheave has opened so far that it has passed the end of the key that keeps the sheave in line and turned slightly.