I'm in total agreement.... however it's all about cutting energy demand... silly part is I have to jump through hoops on a large custom home to use 50% "high Efficacy" lamp sources/fixtures and in that same home there will be 6 each 6000 Watt (240V) patio heaters!!!!heathicus wrote:The only question I have is what makes Congress think they know so much better than me about what kind of light bulbs I should buy?
But I guess that's a question for another place...
(still really irks me, though)
CFLs and utility lights
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I've been using CFLs since the late 90s and they clearly don't last as long as advertised. I've taken to using a Sharpie Pen to put the installation date on the bulbs, but I really haven't kept track of exact bulb life. All I know is they don't last any where near what the claims are. Nevertheless, there are benefits to using them over incandescent bulbs -- less heat and lower energy consumption -- so I still use them along with incandescent bulbs.
A few years back I had a couple that started smoking when burning out. I called the manufacturer -- Lights of America -- and they wanted one returned, but they never followed through on the matter, nor did I. Needless to say, I don't use that brand any longer.
A few years back I had a couple that started smoking when burning out. I called the manufacturer -- Lights of America -- and they wanted one returned, but they never followed through on the matter, nor did I. Needless to say, I don't use that brand any longer.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
Very good call... that's all I have to say about that...pennview wrote:... I called the manufacturer -- Lights of America -- and they wanted one returned, but they never followed through on the matter, nor did I. Needless to say, I don't use that brand any longer.
My recommendations are GE, Osram Sylvania, Phillips, and TCP.... Only ones I will specify on projects for CFL's...
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- Ed in Tampa
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- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
First didn't mean to put you on the spot.athomas01 wrote:Now.. I didn't say I was the resident expert... I just said finally something I know about....![]()
It all depends on the ballast technology... but most all florescent lamps of some degree of warm up, just some are a lot more visible than others... Screw in med based self ballasted lamps will generally take longer than lamps in dedicated fixture with good electronic ballasts...
On the warm up here is what I found or have been told.
If the CFI is basically a spiral corkscrew replacement for the 50 watt it will more or less come on intantly.
If on the other hand the CFI is a spiral corkscrew enclosed in a glass envelop like a R30 indoor spot light it will take time to warm up.
My neighbor has spot light CFI in his kitchen and I would go nuts with them taking so long to warm up.
On the other hand I have 100 watt CFI spiral shaped in my SS utility light and when I flip the switch the light comes on.
Is the glass envelop the problem or am I missing something. I have a bunch of can type fixtures in the celing that I would like to convert to CFI but won't until the can resolve the warm problem.
Ed in Tampa
Stay out of trouble!
Stay out of trouble!
It's all up to the mfg and the electronics they implement. The ones with the reflectors are nothing more than a spiral with reflector around the lamp... what you are seeing most likely the difference between manufactures...Ed in Tampa wrote:... I have a bunch of can type fixtures in the celing that I would like to convert to CFI but won't until the can resolve the warm problem.
For true instant on , 25,000 hour lamp life (regardless of on/off cycling), as well as dimmable, I would look at the Osram Sylvania LED15BR30/DIM/827. It is a 15 watt LED BR30 replacement lamp... field tests have been very good! FYI... LED's are UV, IR and Mercury Free...
Click Here for More Info
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- JPG
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athomas01 wrote:It's all up to the mfg and the electronics they implement. The ones with the reflectors are nothing more than a spiral with reflector around the lamp... what you are seeing most likely the difference between manufactures...
For true instant on , 25,000 hour lamp life (regardless of on/off cycling), as well as dimmable, I would look at the Osram Sylvania LED15BR30/DIM/827. It is a 15 watt LED BR30 replacement lamp... field tests have been very good! FYI... LED's are UV, IR and Mercury Free...
Click Here for More Info
Commonly available? Suggested sources? $$$?
P.S. What is commonly used for traffic lights today?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Traffic signals are using LED's, but much different... they just have to be seen vs. projecting light... much tougher standard. Send me private message... I'll get you couple at my cost for you to try if you want....JPG40504 wrote:Commonly available? Suggested sources? $$$?
P.S. What is commonly used for traffic lights today?
Big Time Rookie!
Where there's a will...
Anyone want to buy some incandescent 'heatbulbs' ?
http://www.heatbulbs.eu/en/order
Anyone want to buy some incandescent 'heatbulbs' ?
http://www.heatbulbs.eu/en/order